Monday, February 29, 2016




Short interval west swell; lots of double ups, lots of close outs. Poor overall shape and quality. Chest to shoulder high with some head high + sets. Light NW breeze and fog, thick at times. Sea surface is smooth and tide is low (1.6). Tide begins max flow at 11am to reach a 2.9 high at 2pm. There are about 4-5 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Thursday, February 25, 2016




6-9 feet; 10-12 on the sets. Large west swell this morning with no shape, no form and no fun. Sets of 4-5 waves are about 2 minutes apart and the lines are stacked out to the horizon. Lots and lots of white water with a river like south bound near shore current. Sea surface conditions are fair with a light offshore breeze. Two guys are attempting to paddle out but it looks like they are going to be denied; both have turned around and caught the soup in. Tide is medium high, going to a 5.1 at 10:30 but the wave run up is already taking bites out of the bluffs. Low tide will be at 4:45pm (0.3).

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Monday, February 22, 2016




I can hear it; just can't see it. White out fog conditions. Light easterly breeze, high tide and still on the rise to a 6.1 at 9am. A downshift to low tide begins at 12:30pm and bottoms out to a -0.7 low at 3:30pm.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Friday, February 19, 2016




It's as big today as it was small yesterday. Large medium period (13-14 sec) west swell is seriously pummeling Del Mar this morning. And it's doing it through the high tide. 5-6 foot shorebreak with the sets easily in the 8-10 foot range. Confused sea surface with some major bump and chop running. Shape is poor; lined up, doubled up and warbly; waves everywhere. Light offshores. Tide is just coming down from a 6.2 high which will quickly drain out to a -1.0 at 2pm. About 15 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Thursday, February 18, 2016




Emerald green water. Glassy conditions. Small knee to waist high surf breaking very close in. Light offshore breeze and dark storm clouds to the north. Other than that, not much going on surf wise. Tide is high (6.0); a -0.7 tide at 1:15pm. One person out.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Tuesday, February 16, 2016




Short period knee to waist to chest high wind swell surf this morning. Clean conditions with a moderate easterly breeze. Good sea surface conditions. The reef has the best shape and form this morning. Tres Palms and the sandbar in front of the grass have more size but are more lined up with mostly close outs. All in all, today is better than anything here all of last week and the weekend. Medium tide on its way out to 0.1 at 11:30 am then back up to 3.6 at 6pm. 12 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Monday, February 15, 2016




Confused and unfocused. Size and swell period have dropped off leaving us with a mish mash of surf that is all over the place. Generally waist to chest high with larger set waves. Shape is fair to poor; not much taper, not much in length of ride. But who knows, you might just get lucky. Smooth sea surface, light SE breeze. About 15 people out. Medium tide on its way out to a 0.6 low at 10am then back up to a 3.3 high at 4:30pm.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Friday, February 12, 2016




On the rise. First part of the swell is here with head to overhead set waves. Chest to shoulder in between. Some lulls but set waves are very tightly packed so you have to sprint paddle most of the way out or you will find yourself taking more than one on the head. Poor to fair shape with long walls and not much in the way if taper. Tide is low, on the way up to a 5.0 at noon. Max ebb at 3 pm then on out to a 0.3 low at 6pm. About 40 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Thursday, February 11, 2016




Starting to pick up a little. Surf is waist to almost chest high this morning. Shape is fair. Kinda crumbly and not too clean. Some forerunners of the new swell can be seen on the sets; head high long walled up and closed out. Slight bump on the water with a light easterly breeze. Medium tide on the way up to a 5.8 high at 11am then back out to a -0.3 at 5:30pm. 15 people out.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Tuesday, February 9, 2016




Smaller than yesterday; breaking closer in. At least yesterday there were some occasional lines showing to lure you out. Today we have a sea surface devoid of any such nonsense. One off waist high set waves every 10 minutes or so but mostly knee high shore break. High tide and still on the rise. Tops out at 6.7 feet at 9:30am. Turns around to max ebb at 1pm then bottoms out at -1.2 feet at 4pm. 3 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Monday, February 8, 2016




Some tantalizing lines. But they just don't have enough juice to push through the high tide to break on the reef at the normal lineup. Small, knee to waist high shore break. Very fast and hollow that ends up as a shore pound on the cobble that is now the beach at Del Mar. Clean conditions, no wind, cold water. Light crowd; 7 people. Tide is rising to a 6.8 high at 8:45am and then draining to a -1.3 at 3:30 pm. Lots of beach for an afternoon walk.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Friday, February 5, 2016

Like night and day...




So yesterday the surf was waist high at best; today it's in the 6-8 foot zone. Big, long fat lines (stacked up to the horizon on the sets)with way too much west in them for Del Mar. Walled up and closing out for the most part. No wind, smooth sea surface. 5 people out. Tide is high but on the way out to a -0.6 at 2pm.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Thursday, February 4, 2016




Small, clean surf. Knee to waist high peelers pushing through some morning high tide (5.0 feet). Moderate offshore wind is adding the wind chill dimension but is helping with the shape. Breaking fairly close in over a really rocky bottom. That's Dave on the video showing you how it's done. Only 2 people out right now but the surf PE groms are pulling on their wetsuits and are ready to charge. Tide will begin its outward flow around 10am and end up at a -0.1 around 1pm.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Tuesday, February 2, 2016




Things have finally calmed down and smoothed out. Short period wind swell producing some waist to chest high surf. Slightly larger sets. Crumbly crummy shape; no juice. Good sea surface conditions but it's chilly out; 37 degrees as I write this. 5 people out. Tide is high but on the way out to a 1.0 foot low at noon. Water quality is still suspect.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Monday, February 1, 2016




Wind is down (has turned around to offshore here). Rain has stopped. Surf is up; way up. Stormy conditions prevail but underneath it all there is a healthy swell running. While the inside is an indistinguishable mass of white water, outside the waves are at least 15 feet; some even capping out by the half mile buoy. It's a sight to behold. Not one person out. Medium outgoing tide now. The low will show up at 11am at 1.6 feet. Water quality is poor.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary