Friday, January 29, 2016




Ugly, ugly, ugly. Shoulder to head high closed out junk, much larger sets. A giant,seething, churning rip (from in front of Jakes north to 50 yards past the ramp south and out a quarter mile) has turned the inside to a toilet bowl of chop, white water and treacherous currents. There has to be a better place to surf today. Calm winds; moderately bumpy sea surface. 3 people out; a few more trying to get out but not having much luck. Tide is low and will fill in to a 4.1 high at noon.

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Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Thursday, January 28, 2016




Starting to line up. Forerunners of new swell are beginning to show. Shoulder to head high; larger sets. Shape is a tad walled up with some pick and choose corners but mostly closing out. Slightly rippled sea surface; not crisp, not clean. A moderate crowd of 30; trying to get on it before it jumps up to the predicted 10-12 foot stuff. Which Del Mar does not handle so well. Tide is low but has begun its flow to a 4.7 high at 11:30am.

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Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Tuesday, January 26, 2016




Small and close in. Waist to chest high with good sea surface conditions. Larger set waves. More focused than yesterday with some decent corners to swing into. Light offshores and a light crowd (10). Tide is on the rise to a 6.9 high at 10am then back out to a -0.4 at 5pm.

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Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Monday, January 25, 2016




Not as wild and crazy. Swell has dropped and the period has shortened up. Chest to shoulder high with occasional head high sets. Consistent; no lulls. Some doubling up. Kind of soft and a challenge to get into at this point in the tide. But it's looking eminently more surfable than the last week and a half. Good sea surface conditions; no wind. 12 guys out. 6.3 high tide at 9:30am; ebbing to a -0.8 at 4:30pm, so a good walking beach this afternoon.

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Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Thursday, January 21, 2016




Organized chaos. 7.0 high tide, competing medium/large swells slamming into each other, limited visibility (fog) and shifting peaks. Sounds like fun, no? Surf is running about chest to head high with larger sets. Walled up with poor shape. Southerly nearshore current. High tide has softened up up a bit till the lines hit the inside sandbars; then they jump up to a 5-6 foot shorebreak. Light swirling NE winds; good sea surface conditions. About 12 people out.

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Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Tuesday, January 19, 2016




Larger and more consistent than yesterday. 10-12 feet; pushing 15+ to the south around 8th street. The air is heavy with salt water mist. Shape is nonexistent; just long walled up lines exploding on the reef and sandbars. Tons of whitewater and even more in the way of currents and rips. 10 people out; waaaay out, almost at the quarter mile buoy. No wind; smooth sea surface conditions. Tide is high and on its way out. A minus 0.3 tide shows up around 12:30pm.

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Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Monday, January 18, 2016




Large and unruly. 8-10 foot close outs this morning. Some lulls but mostly top to bottom bone crushers. Light offshore breeze; relatively smooth sea surface. Tide is high but ebbing to a 0.3 low at 11:40am. No one out.

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Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Friday, January 15, 2016




Ugly from the front; ugly from the back. It's a jumbled up mess this morning. Hacked up on the inside and doubled up on the outside. Closed out sets are head to overhead and just dumping. No shoulders. No corners. Just walls. Poor sea surface conditions with a lot of bump, texture and chop. Low tide now. High tide will be 4.5 feet at 1pm. About 12 people out.

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Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Thursday, January 14, 2016




The sets have some size (head high +) but overall it's just a bit out of focus. Low tide with those long walled up west lines pushing through. Short period swell waves are dominate; no clear line up or peak. Surf is biggest to the north and south of the reef. Shape is poor+. Light to medium texture on the water. Light SE breeze; air temp in the low 50's 10 people out. Tide is low but beginning its flow into a 5.2 high at noon.

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Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Tuesday, January 12, 2016




Medium (12sec) to long (17sec) period west swell this morning. Long, walled up and closed out. Consistently head high with head and a half in the sets. Double overhead to the south around 11th street. Some decent lulls and strong rips to help on your way out to the line up. Overall shape is poor to fair. Tide is on the rise to a 6.4 high at 10:15am then back out to a -0.9 low at 5pm. Current air temp is a brisk and invigorating 41. About 10 people out.

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Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Monday, January 11, 2016




Good conditions; building swell. Offshore winds grooming some chest to shoulder high peaks. Larger sets. The tide is high and still rising to an almost 7.0 peak. This is kinda messing with the surfs' power and shape (slow, mushy and hard to get into). But if you sit just far enough inside you can snatch a crisp corner or two and still not get tagged by a set wave. The lines are stacked up pretty far out to sea and this should become even more pronounced as the swell hits its stride later today. 7 people out. 7.0 high tide at 9:30am; -1.1 at 4:30pm.

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Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Friday, January 8, 2016




Bigger. Stormier. Surf is in the 8-10 foot zone this morning with sets going double overhead. Basically seething caldron of large waves, whitewater, sand and runoff. Light breeze from the east. Poor conditions, poor surf, bluff erosion and this is just the beginning of a very different kind of winter for coastal California. Not a surf day but definitely a day to get outside and watch the Pacific Ocean behave in a decidedly unpacific manner.

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Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Thursday, January 7, 2016




Major storm surf. 6-8 foot bruisers churning up some runoff laden chocolate brown ocean. Wind is out of the west at a very breezy 15-20mph. More nasty weather pushing in from the south and north. Not a surf day. Tide is high right now at 6.3 feet. Ebbing to a low of -0.6 feet at 2:15pm. Surf is expected to bump up a few more feet between now and sunset.

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Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Wednesday, January 6, 2016




Blown out junky mess. High tide and storm surge has consumed the beach; all water no sand. Ocean is up against bluffs to south, beach front homes to the north. Surf is head high. No one out. Tide is falling; will reach a -0.1 low at 2pm. Wind is from the WSW at about 5mph; stronger gusts.

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Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Monday, January 4, 2016




And so it begins. Rain overnight. And the forerunners of a large NW swell have shown up. Surf is in the shoulder to head high zone with + sets. Long, thick and walled up at present. Lines out to the horizon as the sets show up. Wind is offshore creating some magnificent spindrifts on the set waves. Conditions are good. 3 people are out giving it a go. Tide has just passed it's 5.2 foot high and will begin it's ebb to a 1.0 low at 4:30pm.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Friday, January 1, 2016




Happy New Year everyone! Wish I had a better surf report; but it's not to be. Ankle to knee high closed out shore break. Flat. Smooth sea surface and otherwise excellent conditions. Tide is ebbing to a 2.6 low at 9:30am and then flowing into a 3.5 high at 2pm; so not even very much going on there. Sun is just now on the water. 4 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary