Wednesday, September 30, 2015




Rolling, rolling, rolling. Only a medium tide but the waves are having a hard time finding the bottom. Knee to waist high at the reef, slightly larger to the north and south. North east breeze has roughed up the sea surface a bit but not affecting the surf much. More swell than the last few weeks so there are more people (10 or so) out in the lineup. Medium low tide right now, zooming up to a 6.8 at 11:15 this morning.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Monday, September 28, 2015




Knee to waist high shore pound. Wind swell remnants hanging around but there's just not much out there this morning. Glassy sea surface conditions with a medium tide. 3 people out. The tide is flowing in to a 6.8 high tide at 10 am. This is going to completely swallow the beach. So your morning beach walk had better be soon.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Friday, September 25, 2015




Not much to see this morning. Weak swell and high tide (5.5) are conspiring to produce waist high shore break and not much else. The glassy sea surface conditions and mid 70's water temps are tempting though. How tempting? Enough to lure Chuck out into the water since his July knee replacement surgery. Good to see him back! 12 people out. Tide will fall off to a 1.0 low around 2pm.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

YouTube Video


Friday, September 18, 2015




Clean conditions with some waist high surf. Not as focused as yesterday and somewhat lined up on the sets. Crowd has jumped up to about 30; milling about hunting down that corner for the ride that will get them to the beach and in their car for the commute to work. A bit of sea surface ripple and calm winds. About one hour off the low tide; swinging around to a 5.2 high at 12:30 this afternoon.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Thursday, September 17, 2015




Much better conditions; slightly cleaner water. Tomorrow, not today, for a go out, ok? The ocean water quality is still not ready for prime time. But I think it's going to be difficult for some people to resist. Offshores, shapely waist high peaks, sunshine and warm water. Sets are in the chest high zone with good shape. 10 people out. Medium tide now, flowing in to a 5.4 high tide at noon. This will all be here tomorrow so come back then.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Wednesday, September 16, 2015




No swimming. No surfing. No water contact. The ocean is working hard to accommodate, process and render harmless the untold millions of gallons of urban runoff from yesterday's rain. Rule of thumb is to allow 72 hours for this to happen. So, in the meantime, look but don't touch.

Onshore winds have blown out what little surf there is this morning. Knee high, crumbly surf struggles to make land fall where, when it does, it flops meekly onto the sand. No one out. Tide is beginning to flow back in from a 1.3 low at 5am to a 5.5 high at 11:30 am.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Monday, September 14, 2015




Flat. Some small ankle high shore pound; that's it. Light wind wiffle scuffing up the sea surface. Two people out. Body surfing or boogie boarding would be the call this morning. Medium tide; flowing in to a 5.5 high at 10:30am.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Friday, September 11, 2015




Very steeply angled south swell this morning. The waves are rolling in almost sideways. Surf in the waist high plus zone this morning. These are what I call "leisure" waves. Slow and gentle; can be seen coming from a long way off; broad faces for some slow arcing turns, cutbacks and some tip riding closer to shore. Glassy conditions, calm wind and a light crowd (30 or so) spread out evenly across the lineups. And warm, warm water. The perfect playground.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Thursday, September 10, 2015




Very very still. Very very humid. Very very warm. Kona conditions in San Diego. Surf is very inconsistent and the tide is high. Mostly in the waist high zone; a notch taller on the sets. Sets are walled up and closing out; everything else is shore break. There are a few shoulders here and there but not many. About 30 people out, mostly clumped together around the northern edge of the reef. The reef itself and the south peak are pretty much vacant. The 5.1 high tide will show up at 9am; ebbing to a 1.5 ft low at 2:30pm.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Wednesday, September 9, 2015




If only the surf was as hot as the weather! Inconsistent waist to chest high waves on tap this morning. But a high tide has made them fat and lazy, especially on the reef. The south peak seems to be the best bet right now. The tide swings today (4.9@ 8:30am and 1.8@ 2pm) will affect the size and shape dramatically. Calm winds, slight sea surface bump and some warble on the waves. At least 50 people out with more streaming in. The sun has just crested the rise and it is already intense. Stay frosty.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Friday, September 4, 2015




More swell. More wind. Moderate SW wind had put some serious bump on the water this morning. Inconsistent surf is running waist to chest; larger on the closed out sets. Shape is mostly poor with only a few pick and choose corners. Conditions are deteriorating quickly. And it's way too crowded; 40 people out. Tide is still ebbing to a 2.1 low at 8am. A high tide of 5.7 feet will flow in at 2:30pm.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Thursday, September 3, 2015




Clean conditions, waist to belly high surf. Tide is very low so shape is not that good but not that bad either. Inside section is standing up and racing down the line in some very shallow water. Sets are larger but are tending to roll on through to the inside before breaking. Light overcast with patches of blue here and there. Wind is calm and the crowd is about 30. Tide will flow in to a 6.0 high at 1:30pm

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Wednesday, September 2, 2015




South wind, south swell, low tide. There is definitely some swell in the water; the lines are quite visible. Surf is in the waist to chest zone and slightly larger on the sets. Consistency is an issue as is the bump on the water and the crumble on the waves. Shape is slightly south of fair but it does have its moments. The line up is evenly spaced all along the reef with about 30 people out. The wind velocity is increasing. Tide is about an hour off a low of 0.7, heading up to a high of 6.2 at 12:30pm.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary