Friday, December 30, 2011

Fog is thick and




The tide is about to bottom out. Plus the background SSW that was help to break up the NNW swell a bit is pretty much gone. So I think, but can't tell for sure because of the fog, the surf here at DM is going to be a tad walled up.

I can't even see the line up to tell you how many guys are out.

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Thursday, December 29, 2011

Decent tide




Good surface conditions, slight SE breeze, waist maybe chest high. Swell angle has increased so it's lost some of it's pop but it looks fun. Slightly better shape than yesterday with about with about 15 guys out. 5 wave sets with the last ones having the best shape. The sun has just hit the line up so it's time to get out there!

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, December 28, 2011

Steeper Swell Angle




But the sets are at least head high and closing out. Unlike yesterday there is some in between stuff, especially south of the reef. Waist to chest high. It's just that you have to sit so far outside to avoid getting clean up by the sets that the in between stuff can be difficult to slide into.

Clay just paddled out and is now scratching for a set wave; which he got. Calm winds, good surface conditions and about 15 guys out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, December 27, 2011

The Calm




Between the sets. Inconsistent, bomber sets closing out the reef. Pretty much flat in between. Deceptive it is. Oh, and I know you've been waiting out there for a long time for a wave. But. Don't. Take. The. First. Wave. Of. The. Set. Unless, or course, it's your wave in.

Fair surface conditions, fair to poor shape. Too much west in the swell for Del Mar. About 15 guys out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monday, December 26, 2011

Amazing




It's only 7:30 and the incoming high tide has already started to bog things down. There are some waist high sets making it through but they are not breaking till well inside. Other than that, not much happening. 6 guys out and 6 more in the parking lot wondering if it's worth a go out.

The most interesting sight this morning is a huge flock of sea birds on gorging themselves on the bait fish congregating on the outer reef.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Friday, December 23, 2011

High Tide Blues




In the key of A. There's a swell out there but the 7.0 tide is absolutely killing it. Sets are waist high but not breaking till it becomes a shore break. The sun is warming things up so that's good. But if you want to catch any waves this morning be sure to bring your small wave, super high tide wave riding machine.

Got any last minute shopping to get done? Now would be the time. A win win situation; you'd get the shopping done and not miss any meaningful surf.

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Thursday, December 22, 2011

Slightly Larger




Than yesterday. With moderate offshores and cold air temps. Fair surface conditions, high tide, waist high with some shoulder to head high sets every 10-15". 30 guys out. A few more waiting for the sun and then they will be out there too.

There's definitely some waves, they are just having a hard time pushing through the high tide. So it's a race; will the tide get better before the wind clocks around from the south? Or will it be the other way around?

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

It has




Backed off a lot. Both surf wise and wind wise. Clean surface conditions, inconsistent, waist high and about 15 guys out. Tide is falling but is right up against the cliffs right now, making for some slow going. Most rides are on the inside trac with some occasional sets showing on the reef. Looks like Luke, Dave, Kurt, Pete and Reid are out among the the frozen few. The sun is just starting to hit the line up. That should help some.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Much Cleaner




And better shape. Inconsistent waist to shoulder high. Larger, but walled up, sets. 15 guys out. Long waits so bring plenty of rubber and your squid lid to keep your melon warm.

Looks like the dolphins are getting the best of it. But they always do.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monday, December 19, 2011

Vacation time!




With the crowds to go with it. 30 guys out. All sitting waaaaay outside in hopes of snagging one of the set waves. Waist to shoulder high, offshore breeze, fair to poor shape. Fair surface conditions. The beach break is walled up, closing out. The reef is showing but just not breaking till well inside of where most everyone is sitting. Must be some cleanup sets lurking out the back somewhere.

Lots of tryin'; not much ridin' Rising tide isn't going to help.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Friday, December 16, 2011

Offshore




Clean conditions with a moderate NE breeze. Waist to chest high with fair shape. Peaks are popping up in all the usual places; sets are a little walled up but there are some shoulders on the reef if you paddle hard enough. Not really all that juicy but way better than yesterday. 14 people out paddling here and there trying to stay warm and most likely shivering uncontrollably in between sets.

Sun is out, sky is clear and it's Friday; what more could you want? Luke, that's a rhetorical question; no answer necessary.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Thursday, December 15, 2011

Clean Micro Lines




Clear, crisp, calm and cold. Ankle high lines have kept the line up vacant. Not much wave action to speak of but 3 guys are giving it a go at the sandbar in front of the grass. Very lake like. A good day to bust out that SUP you have secretly stashed in your garage? Come on; the one you don't want any of us to know that you have yet you need to get out on for some practice. In some uncrowded yet familiar waters. Now would be that time.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Lines Out to the Horizon!




Clean, crisp lines as far as you can see. Translating into shoulder to head high surf breaking close in due to the high tide. Smooth, clean faces with razor edged lips. The sets are kinda walled up but the in between stuff looks pretty good. 8 guys out. The reef is the sweet spot this morning.

Now if we could figure out this runoff caused pollution...

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Eye Candy: Vans Triple Crown Sunset; Finals

It was big; 8-12 feet.  Not epic north shore big.  But big enough.  Plus this is Sunset Beach; where even on small days the rip can take you out to sea in a split second if you don't know what you are doing or right back out to the line up if you do.  It was cleaner than the previous day but still warbly and bumpy with side shore winds. Every once in a while some bombs (15 to 20 feet by my reckoning) would show up and plow through the line up. No takers.
Four finalists; John Florence (Hawaii), Adam Melling (Austrialia), Michel Bourez (Tahiti) and Hank Gaskell (Hawaii) had all made it through 4 days of intense heats and sometimes sketchy conditions.  John was very relaxed and truly looked like he was having fun.  Adam and Michel were power surfers, throwing down some powerful moves and taking some incredible beatings and kept on ticking.  Hank (as he said on the stand after the event) was just glad to be surfing at Sunset with just 3 other guys; anything else would just be the frosting on the cake.
Check out some of their waves:


First up,  Hank Gaskell

John Florence rips one off the top

Adam Melling lip bash

Michel Bourez cut back
Adam cranks back into the oncoming face
Michel sets up for...

this!

John follows up with a cover up of his own 
Now for some of the barrels of the heat:

John starts off with this incredible barrel on the west bowl (6 wave sequence)





 Michel comes right back with this:


 Hank in the green room.

Michel comes up with this incredible wave that covers him up twice; makes the first one but gets pinched on the second (7 wave sequence):







John then drives right into this

Adam charges into this smoking, frothing barrel and makes it out the other end (6 wave sequence)





 Quietly on the hunt, with 2 minutes left, John drops into the wave that puts it out of reach for everyone else.




To the west, Kammie Land.  Check out the rip and boil in the foreground.  Yikes!

John wins first, Michel gets second, Adam third and Hank brings home fourth.


All photos copyright Gary Erbeck