Friday, December 4, 2015
It was better yesterday and there were only 12 people out; 40+ this morning. Surf is waist to chest high with poor-fair shape and that Del Mar warble. Sets are larger. At this point the swell is fairly unfocused and not well organized. But that could change with the tide as it ebbs to a 2.0 at 11:30am. Sea surface has some bump and texture but there is no wind. So, there are some forerunners of the new swell out there but the main event had yet to begin. Brace yourself for ridiculous crowds.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
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