Sunday, September 30, 2012

15.4 seconds @ 225 degrees


No fog this morning, good swell direction; the Sunday crowd was all over it.  The bump on the water yesterday was gone leaving very smooth, glassy conditions with shoulder to head high surf.  The sets were larger.  It is a south swell so there were long periods of doldrums interspersed with jockeying for position and priority when the sets showed up.  As usual, the big guys had the outside locked up while the groms were jazzing the glass on the inside.  Little gumby people.  Have a look:
Luke snags a tasty one...

And Kenny was actually out in the sun...

John slides into a nice left...

Staring it down...

Chest high to you and me...

Clay cranks that 10 footer around...

Slotted...

Luke again; on a frothy one...

Smiles can only mean one thing...

Now for the grom show...

A grom tucking himself into a 3 footer

And gets a cover up




The inside section

More smiles...




There's supposed to be more on tap for tomorrow...

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

All photos copyright Gary Erbeck


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