Thursday, January 26, 2012
Rising tide
And a new swell. Long, walled up, closed out west lines. Small waist high dribble in between the head to head+ sets. Clean surface conditions, 10-15 people out.
This swell has a lot of west in it and not much else. Not the sort of swell direction that DM does best with. Nothing to break or shape it up. The line up is parked further out than normal; trying not to get swallowed by the sets. Not a great day at 15th street, this swell is going to be better at a point or deeper water reef.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
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