Friday, January 27, 2012

At the Crest




Of Del Mar Heights Road one is presented with panorama of the eastern Pacific showing big, fat lines out to the horizon.

At the beach the vista is somewhat different; long, walled up, closing out 7-10 foot sets pounding the crap out of everyone in the lineup. Totally maxed out and totally wrong swell direction with no "good" swell in the water to break it up and provide some focus. Just raw, unrelenting WNW energy.

Not much wind, light bump, and head high white water. Lots and lots of white water and giant rips up and down the beach.

These are the conditions on the reef; north and south it's even bigger and meaner.

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary


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