And it's mean. Long period raw northpac energy creating 7-10 foot walls of water that are absolutely mauling 15th street. Good surface conditions, light SE breeze, poor to fair shape. 20 guys out at the reef jockeying for position, a wave and when the sets pour through, survival. Steep take offs and very short rides right into the maw of the beast. And this isn't even the "big" swell that's supposed to hit late tomorrow and Friday.
Can't wait for that. I'm going to head a little further north to see what I can see.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
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