Wind on the Water

Light off shore breeze has put a riffle on the water. Knee to waist high, clean, inconsistent and 5 guys out. It's pretty slow this morning and even with the dropping tide it's not breaking till well inside. Rights better than the lefts today but that's not saying a lot.

The swell is supposed to fill in throughout the day (it's not here yet) so an afternoon session (winds will be a factor though) might be something to consider.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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The Thrill is Gone

And so are the waves. Ankle to knee high mushburgers, low tide and poor shape. Not a soul in the water. Or in the parking lot. Or even on the beach. Must be Monday. We still have some offshore flow so it's looking like another great San Diego winter day. Darn.

Positive vibrations to Clayfish on the day of his surgery.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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At the Crest

Of Del Mar Heights Road one is presented with panorama of the eastern Pacific showing big, fat lines out to the horizon.

At the beach the vista is somewhat different; long, walled up, closing out 7-10 foot sets pounding the crap out of everyone in the lineup. Totally maxed out and totally wrong swell direction with no "good" swell in the water to break it up and provide some focus. Just raw, unrelenting WNW energy.

Not much wind, light bump, and head high white water. Lots and lots of white water and giant rips up and down the beach.

These are the conditions on the reef; north and south it's even bigger and meaner.

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary


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Rising tide

And a new swell. Long, walled up, closed out west lines. Small waist high dribble in between the head to head+ sets. Clean surface conditions, 10-15 people out.

This swell has a lot of west in it and not much else. Not the sort of swell direction that DM does best with. Nothing to break or shape it up. The line up is parked further out than normal; trying not to get swallowed by the sets. Not a great day at 15th street, this swell is going to be better at a point or deeper water reef.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Lumpy and bumpy

Pretty typical post storm surf. Large, peaky, unfocused and dirty. A jumbled up mess of head high to head high+ (and that's just the white water) with some bombs out the back. Poor shape. No one out.

Looks like a good morning to hit the gym. Which is exactly what I'm going to do.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Whoa!

And yikes! It's big and mean this morning. 8-10 foot closeouts. And lots of water moving every which way. As the incoming water bounces off the bluffs it creates a standing wave when the outgoing surge meets the incoming surge.

Clean conditions, almost glassy, ominous skies and no one out. Oh, and the dolphins are all over it. Having the time of their dolphin lives. Flawlessly surfing the biggest of the sets and leaping high into the air through the back at the last possible moment. Awesome stuff.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Offshores Have Picked Up

Stronger east winds aren't doing us any favors. Combined with a high tide and a localized wind swell all they are doing is holding up, and back, some pretty weak waves. Making them a challenge to get into.

Waist to shoulder high with the best shape about 200 yards north of the reef. These waves are right in top if each other so this is not a "dry hair" paddle out. Fair surface conditions, about 20 in the line up. I imagine that conditions will deteriorate more as the sun moves across the sky. Or is that just the earth's rotation? I can never remember.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Another cold, cold morning

Very short period (5-6 seconds) windswell waves about waist high. Good surface conditions, light offshores and no one (exept a sweeper) out. Tide is still fairly high so nothing is breaking till its well inside and then it's slow and mushy.

The sets are larger (shoulder high) but are walled up and closing out. Well, I'm headed up to LA for a day of fun and frivolity.

And Luke, I don't care what certain people say about the color of your new board, it looks good. So, are you going to get a wetsuit in a matching color?


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Great Sunrise

Short period, somewhat peaky, crumbly windswell. Waist to chest, moderate easterly winds, some surface texture. Fair minus shape. Not much juice to it at all. Chilly and no one out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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The Day After

Some heavy rains last night. And you know what that means, right? Some heavy runoff. And we haven't had rain in almost a month so you can expect that the urban drool was filled with all sorts of nasties.

But for those of you that must know, it's not a surf day anyway. Moderate surface bump and long crumbly waist high lines. No wind yet. 2 guys out with one more on the beach getting ready.

Feeling lucky punk?

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Kinda Small

Well, that last swell is now gone, gone, gone. Mostly knee to waist high with some slightly bigger set waves. Light surface bump. 8 guys out. Great conditions, just not much surf to go with it.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Overcast and Glassy

Swell has dropped some and crowd has thinned out considerably (10-12 guys out). Waist to shoulder high with some inconsistent overhead sets. The sets are walled up and closing out so your best bet is to try for some of the in between stuff which has some decent shape. Small, spread out crowd; good chance to get a wave all to yourself.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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2nd Day of the Swell

More organized, more focused, way more crowded. Head to head+ on the sets. More consistent and fair to good shape. Clean conditions with a very light east breeze. Sets are walked up and closing out but in between those it looks pretty good; except for the extreme crowd.

The high tide at 9:30 might swallow some of this but it seems to have enough size and power that it might actually help the set waves become better.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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More Swell

A new swell is pulsing some wave energy through the line up this morning. Shape is not the best though; mostly long walled up waves with few shoulders. The biggest sets are head high with not too much in between. Clean surface conditions, 14 guys out. Coming up to a really high tide which may help with the shape but maybe not.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Time Out

The swell is gone and anything that might have been left of it has been eaten by the high tide. Clean surface conditions, calm wind, knee to waist high inconsistent sets. Nothing much is breaking till well inside and then it's a shorebreak closeout. 3 surfers and one sweeper out.

Looks like a good day to get some other stuff done and rest up for the next round of NNW swells on the horizon.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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It's Big

But it seems like it was bigger Wednesday, but it's not. North of the reef; 10'. South of the reef; 10'. On the reef; 7-8'. Surface conditions are sloppy and the shape is marginal. Lots of white water to push through. A lot of bump on the water. 15 to 20 guys out. Best waves I've seen are the left just south of the reef but the stand up guys are all over that.

So, the are definitely big waves to be had today, just not at 15th street. I'm going to head south to check out some of the reefs in La Jolla; photo opportunities. I'll post them later today.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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A Small Window

For some smaller surf this morning. Waist to chest high with good surface conditions and fair shape. Tide is on the way out but a little too much water right now. About 20 guys out. Larger, much larger, surf to fill in this afternoon and carry on into the weekend.

So if the thought of 15 foot faces gives you chicken skin, now is the time to hit it.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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It's Big. It's Green

And it's mean. Long period raw northpac energy creating 7-10 foot walls of water that are absolutely mauling 15th street. Good surface conditions, light SE breeze, poor to fair shape. 20 guys out at the reef jockeying for position, a wave and when the sets pour through, survival. Steep take offs and very short rides right into the maw of the beast. And this isn't even the "big" swell that's supposed to hit late tomorrow and Friday.

Can't wait for that. I'm going to head a little further north to see what I can see.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Nope, not kiddin'

The much anticipated, much hyped swell is not here. In fact, it's smaller than it has been in a while. This morning we have clean conditions with ankle to knee high shore break. It's too bad because conditions are near perfect; no wind and the fog monster is nowhere to be seen. And there is no one out. Although I did notice the high school surf PE class suiting up; will that ever be done?

Don't despair, the waves will pick up soon enough. So much so that more than a few of us will be content just to watch.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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