Thursday, January 21, 2016
Organized chaos. 7.0 high tide, competing medium/large swells slamming into each other, limited visibility (fog) and shifting peaks. Sounds like fun, no? Surf is running about chest to head high with larger sets. Walled up with poor shape. Southerly nearshore current. High tide has softened up up a bit till the lines hit the inside sandbars; then they jump up to a 5-6 foot shorebreak. Light swirling NE winds; good sea surface conditions. About 12 people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
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