Tuesday, January 12, 2016
Medium (12sec) to long (17sec) period west swell this morning. Long, walled up and closed out. Consistently head high with head and a half in the sets. Double overhead to the south around 11th street. Some decent lulls and strong rips to help on your way out to the line up. Overall shape is poor to fair. Tide is on the rise to a 6.4 high at 10:15am then back out to a -0.9 low at 5pm. Current air temp is a brisk and invigorating 41. About 10 people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
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