Thursday, November 26, 2015




At least it's not windy! But the surf is wild; and not in a good way. A lumpy, jumbled up chest to shoulder high mess. Non stop short period NW swell producing tons of white water and not much else. No defined line up; no defined lines. Pop up peaks that can tag you as well as give up a sweet corner if you're in the right place at the right time. And the occasional lobster trap that has drifted inside; so watch out for those. A surprising number of people out this morning trying to make something out of nothing; at least 15. About an hour off the 7.4 high tide but the surge is clanging off the base of the bluffs producing some spectacular back wash and a challenge to get back to the ramp if your last ride took you south.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

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