Monday, November 30, 2015




Clean, cold conditions. Air temps in the mid 40's. Water temps in the mid 60's. East wind at 7mph. Surf; inconsistent waist to chest high, best on the sets. South and east of the reef are bigger but more exposed to the wind. Shape is fair, crowd is small (12) and shivering. The south inside peak is working nicely. Tide is low and rising to a 5.4 high at 11:30am. Next low is at 7pm (0.0).

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Saturday, November 28, 2015




The tides are better but the waves are tiny and the east winds (7mph) are frosty. Knee to waist high surf that is playing hard to get. Clean, cold conditions with some sea surface ruffle. About 15 people out; the smart ones are wearing neoprene hoods or hats. Incoming tide hits its peak at 10am (6.7) then ebbs out to a -0.9 at 5:30pm.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Friday, November 27, 2015

It's cleaned up a lot. Smooth, short period windswell lines pushing in. Struggling against the high tide. Knee to waist high but not breaking until the inside section. A moderate but very cold NE breeze is grooming the sea surface and the wave faces. That same wind in guaranteed to penetrate almost any wetsuit leaving you frigid and shivering as you wait and wait for something, anything, to push you into shore. In short, conditions are the best we've had this week but the weak swell and high tide have shut down the surf potential.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Thursday, November 26, 2015




At least it's not windy! But the surf is wild; and not in a good way. A lumpy, jumbled up chest to shoulder high mess. Non stop short period NW swell producing tons of white water and not much else. No defined line up; no defined lines. Pop up peaks that can tag you as well as give up a sweet corner if you're in the right place at the right time. And the occasional lobster trap that has drifted inside; so watch out for those. A surprising number of people out this morning trying to make something out of nothing; at least 15. About an hour off the 7.4 high tide but the surge is clanging off the base of the bluffs producing some spectacular back wash and a challenge to get back to the ramp if your last ride took you south.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Wednesday, November 25, 2015




Well, I wasn't expecting that...someone is actual out in this maelstrom. Wait, cancel that...he just got washed back to shore. Barely avoided a thrashing on the rocks. Somewhat bedraggled but ok. The surf is a jumbled blown out mess of head high waves. Very short period, relentless and all over the place. Still an hour from high tide (7.4) and the beach has disappeared. Only a tiny sliver of the sand berm remains. Onshore winds steady at 15mph with gusts up to 20-25 mph. Classic Victory at Sea conditions. Oh, and it's cold.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Tuesday, November 24, 2015




Talk about tide swings! Sitting on a 7.3 right now (7:10am) which is going to suck out to a -1.3 at 2:20pm! Except for a very racy knee high shore break (see Greg on video), the surf has been swallowed by the tide. It may make an appearance later today as the tide swings around. Smooth sea surface conditions; no wind. Water is still warm for this time of year and the underwater visibility is almost Hawaiian style.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Monday, November 23, 2015




High tide. I mean a really high tide; 7 feet! No swell to speak of either. It's basically flat with some ankle to knee high shore crunch. Smooth sea surface, no wind and lots of sun. No surf today. Good day for diving (water clarity is excellent) or kayaking or just hanging out before your relatives arrive for the Thanksgiving day festivities.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Friday, November 20, 2015




Mix together: high tide and weak swell. Result; ankle to knee high shore break. But the sun is out, conditions are good and there is no wind. Despite those pluses I'm calling this a below average surf day. Tide is on the way out to a 1.7 low at 11am then flowing in to a 4.5 high at 4:30pm. 3 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Thursday, November 19, 2015




There are some gems out there. But like all gems, they're rare and hard to find. Knee to waist high crumblers with the occasional waist high gem of a peak that peels off in both directions. Tide is on the way out which should help both size and shape. Smooth sea surface; no wind. Look for the tide to bottom out at 9:30am (2.5) and then flow into a 4.5 high at 3:30pm. 12 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Wednesday, November 18, 2015




Knee to waist high left over windswell. Sets are maybe chest high. Long lined up walls at 17th street. A bit more peaky on the reef. Even at low tide (2.9) The waves are pretty slow and lumbering. Air temps in the high 40's and low 50's; water temps in the mid 60's. No wind but there is a slight sea surface ripple and a couple of guys are wearing hoods. About 12 people out. Next high tide is at 1:30pm (4.7).
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Monday, November 16, 2015




Complete and total washout. Winds at 18-22MPH. And there is actually some crazy person out in the water.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Friday, November 13, 2015




Smaller. Colder. Weak knee to waist high softies. The high tide has sucked most of the enthusiasm out of the waves. Occasional corners to be had on the inside. Good sea surface conditions and no wind. About 25 people out. More than a few of them giving up and just paddling in to shore. And untouched by a wave in the process. Tide is rising to a 6.3 high at 9am then ebbing to a -0.3 low at 4:30pm.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Thursday, November 12, 2015




Many of you knew Ron Gallegos. Some of you surfed with him. More of you had your best surfing photos taken by him. You know, the ones you showed anyone who showed the faintest glimmer of interest in seeing a picture of you surfing. Ron recently passed away and his paddle out will be on Sunday, November 22, 8am at the Powerhouse Park in Del Mar. See you there.

Cold air, high tide and fat waves on tap this morning. Waist to chest high, inconsistent but showing hints of some fun corners. The inside section is got the best shape just watch out for Leith who is body surfing it. Clean conditions and smooth sea surface. No wind. The tide is not high (6.1) for 2 hours but it is already bumping the base of the bluffs. Next low tide is at 4pm (-0.3).

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Wednesday, November 11, 2015







Time to put the spring suits away. If for no other reason than the biting cold air temps amplified by cold east winds. But it is a fine morning with some waist to chest high surf rolling through on a short period westerly windswell. A bit jumbled and crossed up. Sets are going overhead; long walled up lines going nowhere. Strong southerly current and a high tide blasting off the bluffs sending some refraction waves back out to sea. The collisions of outgoing and incoming surf adding to the fun. A 6.1 high tide at 8:30am ends to a -0.2 around 3pm. So there will be lots of beach for walking this afternoon. About 14 out at 15th street with another dozen or so that have been dragged south to around 13th street.

YouTube Video


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Monday, November 9, 2015




More size. Clean conditions. Medium period west swell is pushing in waist to chest high surf with larger sets. Offshores are helping a little but also putting a bite in the air temps. Shape is ok; about what you would expect from a west swell at Del Mar. Tide has just about topped out at 6.1 feet; way too much water. The next low tide (.2) will be at 2pm. About 12 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Friday, November 6, 2015




High tide. Chilly. And flat. Swell is gone with just some maybe knee high mush burgers desperately trying to break. Light offshores have put a wrinkle on the sea surface and will definitely raise goosebumps on your body. Other than that the sun is out and there's not a cloud in the sky. A postcard day in Del Mar. Tide is ebbing to a 1.4 low at 12:30pm. About 10 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Thursday, November 5, 2015




Surf wise, conditions are clean. Health wise not so much. Should wait at least till Friday before venturing out. At least give all the solids a chance to settle out; primary treatment as it were. Anyway, there are some waist to shoulder high waves lazily rolling in. Shape is not bad, just no juice. Dave just gave me a "thumbs down " salute as he was getting out of the water. A good, concise description. Weather wise it's cold with a cold east wind making it colder. Tide is on the way out reaching a 1.9 low at noon. 4 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Wednesday, November 4, 2015




Chest to head high. Larger sets. Short period NW swell, post storm (messy) conditions. Poor shape. Light swirling east breeze. Not a surf day in Del Mar. 3 people out. The high tide (4.7) is on its way out to a 2.5 low at 11am.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Monday, November 2, 2015




Bigger! And more consistent! More west in the swell this morning so the shape is sketchy and you really have to hustle to track down a corner. Surf is in the shoulder to head high range. Warm offshore winds add some fun factor. The shore break in front of the grass is a nasty 6 foot close out. So I would advise using the southerly channel. About 20 people out. Low tide (3.0) is at 7:30am and that will turn around and run up to a 4.8 high at 1:30pm. Sunset is at (are you ready for this?) 4:56pm.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary