Wednesday, May 14, 2014
With the smell of yesterday's wildfire
Lingering in the air, I make my way to the beach thinking "please please, let there be surf". But there isn't. Glassy surface conditions with a line up in waist deep water 50 yards from shore. The dawn patrol is struggling to slide into something, anything, that looks, acts and feels like a wave. Ankle to shin high shore break and for some reason, 10 people out. Half of them on shortboards. Go figure. Oh well, at least it's going to be really really hot today with more of the devil winds and fire danger to keep everyone on edge.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
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