With really COLD water. What the frack; water temps of 60 and below? Anywoo, totally glassy. but no surf to go with it. Occasional double over ankle sets trying desperately to push through the high tide; even the sweepers aren't catching the teeny tiny lines that are literally breaking on the shore in about 12" of water.
But don't tell that to the 16 or so guys out there you'd spoil their illusion; or hallucination. Whatever is going on in their brain that tricked them into paddling out. Must be the allure of cold water.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
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