Lots of activity this morning. Cars pull up; people look; cars leave. Others arrive to take their place. Nervous chatter and laughter. They're here for the much anticipated big south west swell.
Well, it's here. In all it's raging glory and fury. A BIG SSW swell is marching in and depositing itself on the shores of Del Mar with a thunder that is shaking the cliffs every time one unloads. 8-10 with some 12 footers here and there. And just when you think "wow, that was big!", the BOMBS show up and your jaw hits the ground. Cleans up anything and everything in the lineup.
There are about 30 people in the lineup; made possible by the long lulls that come with these south swells. But there are more people who are not able to make it out at all. The line up is about 200 yards further out than normal. Lots of challengers, lots of broken leashes but not too many rides this morning in Del Mar. It's just too big and has too much west in it.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
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