That was all I could think about as I sat in the dentist chair for the next hour or so; I was developing a terminal case of surf angst! And there is only one cure. As soon as I got home I loaded up my board and took off for 15th street. It was around 10:30 when I got there but the 6.2 high tide had dropped enough by that time so that the waves had some decent faces. Still shoulder to head high and the wind was still good. Still 20 guys out.
Had a great time but it wasn't the same without the Powerhouse crew in the water. The rights were much better than the lefts and they had some zip and some juice. So it worked out fine for me. What about you all? Did any of you make it out this morning?
BTW, I heard from Barb this morning. She is going to have her neck/spinal surgery on the 26th with an 8-12 week recovery period after that. Send some positive vibes and good thoughts her way; she hasn't been able to surf since mid October! Barb, all the the Powerhouse Surfing Association crew wishes you a successful operation and speedy recovery. BTW, can we borrow your board since you aren't going to be using it for a while?
Here are more photos of the early days of the San Onofre Surfing Club in action. Chuck asked me where I got them and what I wanted to say is that I bought an old camera at a garage sale and noticed that it still had some film in it. So I had the film developed and voila, previously unknown, historically significant surf photos. That would have been a great story, but the truth is that they are from the archives of Life magazine.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Fully equipped surf vehicle |
I just want to know if this is before or after their session. |
Shaping on the beach |
Nice rails; great stringer! |
The SanO Shack; first edition |
Gotta love the teardrop camper. |
No comments:
Post a Comment