Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Wind!




Don't know how much more of this I can take. West wind is already on it. Slow, crumbly waist high rollers. 10 guys out chase down those elusive here and there corners. This sucks. Tomorrow?




Just got these two books. For those of you who remember Ron Stoner's work from the mid to late 60's, this is an essential book for your library. It also adds some stories about his vanishing act and subsequently being declared dead. Is he or isn't he?

The Ben Marcus book is filled with great factoids and photos of


surfcraft over the years and does a great job of describing the evolution of our tribal culture. Another title for serious anthropolgy students.

Have a good one

Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Location:Coast Blvd,Del Mar,United States

No comments:

Post a Comment