Friday, January 4, 2013

Bright and sunny




Reporting from Terra Mar this morning. Offshore, waist to chest high with classic Terra Mar shape. About 10 guys at Igors and 12 at middles. Looks pretty damn good. Now if I could just stop shivering!!'

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Thursday, January 3, 2013

Brrrrrrr....




Moderate bump and lump on the water this morning. Very light offshore breath. Waist to shoulder with some larger sets. Crumbly with a fair amount of close outs. Too cold to look very inviting.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Mac'in...




Dropping down the steep hill to the ocean, the view was big fat lines all the way to the horizon. That view did not translate into the consistency I was expecting on the ground. To be sure, there are some very large waves this morning. 8 feet+ easily. But those pulses are very inconsistent.

So when you first pull up it looks like we have a chest to shoulder high day with some moderate bump and crumbly conditions. Then about every 15" a set of 4-5 massive waves charges in. Long, walled up beasts, closing out from top to bottom. Hard. So the trick today is to be able to sit inside and get some waves but not so far inside that you can't scratch over the sets.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Sunny and cold




Very clean surface conditions. Waist to chest with some shoulder to head high sets. In coming tide. Sets are walled up but there are some in between peaks here and there. Fair shape, 15 people out. The sun has just popped out over the hill so that should start to warm things up a bit.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone