Dropping down the steep hill to the ocean, the view was big fat lines all the way to the horizon. That view did not translate into the consistency I was expecting on the ground. To be sure, there are some very large waves this morning. 8 feet+ easily. But those pulses are very inconsistent.
So when you first pull up it looks like we have a chest to shoulder high day with some moderate bump and crumbly conditions. Then about every 15" a set of 4-5 massive waves charges in. Long, walled up beasts, closing out from top to bottom. Hard. So the trick today is to be able to sit inside and get some waves but not so far inside that you can't scratch over the sets.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
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