Thursday, December 29, 2016
Bigger and better out of the NW. Shoulder to head high, + sets. Fair to good shape although the high tide is staring to mess with it. Long enough lulls not to get hammered paddling out. Fairly smooth sea surface, no wind. Tide is high and still rising. Topping out at 6.4 feet at 8:30am. Low tide of -0.7 feet at 3:30pm. Air temps in high 40's and water temps in high 50's. About 30 people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Wednesday, December 28, 2016
Big, mean, lined up sets. Head high to + sets that are washing over the lineup. In between a more modest waist to chest high but the 6.0 tide has swallowed most of that. Only way to get some of those is to sit way inside; then of course the sets work you over. There are some lulls so getting out to the peak is not to bad. Smooth sea surface conditions and no wind. Air temps in mid 40's; water in upper 50's. No beach; water and waves right up against the bluffs. Low tide of -0.7 at 3pm. About 20 people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Friday, December 23, 2016
High tide, high waves, high runoff and more than a few judgment impaired people in the water. Waist to chest high with some shoulder to head high sets. Crummy crumbled shape. Bumpy, choppy sea surface; light swirling breezes. Not really a good surf day even if the ocean wasn't brimming with millions and millions of gallons of urban vomit. Must be true that ignorance is bliss. Ebbing tide (0.9 feet at 12:15pm). Next high tide of 3.6 feet at 6:15pm.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Thursday, December 22, 2016
Windy and struggling with a few surprises. Strong SE side shore winds with knee to waist high shore break. The surprises are in the form of shoulder to head high closed out set waves. Choppy surface conditions and heavily polluted water. High tide on the way out to a 1.5 low at 11:30am then flowing in to a 3.5 high at 5 pm. 4 people with very poor judgement and decision making skills in the water.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Wednesday, December 21, 2016
Clean but tiny high tide lines. Mostly knee to waist high with occasional chest high sets. Dark overcast skies with a moderate NW breeze. Slightly ruffled sea surface but not choppy or bumpy (yet). The reef has the best shape and size this morning. The beach break is very small and closed out. A 2.0 low tide at 10:15am then flowing in to a 3.6 high at 3:30 pm. 4 people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Monday, December 19, 2016
Saturday, December 17, 2016
Big, dirty, windy and cold. All that wind yesterday has whipped up some shoulder to head high out of control surf. Air temps in mid 40's; water temps in high 50's and....stiff offshore wind. Serious windchill and the water is about as polluted as it can get. Yet there are in fact, 2 not so smart people out. Tide is rising to 6.2 feet at 11am then back out to -0.7 at 6pm. Anyway, Monday is the earliest anyone should contemplate going back in the water; Tuesday would be better.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Friday, December 16, 2016
Thursday, December 15, 2016
Wednesday, December 14, 2016
Huge tidal swings; no surf. High tide and getting higher (7.6@8:30am). No surf, no wind; glassy sea surface conditions. A -1.9 tide shows up at 3:30 pm so the beach will be revealing some long submerged mysteries this afternoon. Recommend you get out an enjoy it since it looks like Thursday and Friday will be rainy and cold. No one out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Sunday, December 11, 2016
7 foot tide; tiny, local very short period wind swell and lumpy sea surface conditions. And cold water. And only one person out. Perfecto! There may be more to it when the tide backs off (-1.0 at 1:15pm) but that's an 8 foot tide swing so surf wise it's not looking all that great. But a low tide beach walk is worth considering.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Saturday, December 10, 2016
Small, breezy and clean. Slow tide burdened knee to thigh high surf this morning. Local wind swell stuff so not much punch to it. Some larger lines popping up but they just look promising before they flop over and mush out. Moderate NE breeze with a smooth sea surface. High tide on its way out to a -0.2 at 12:30pm. About 10 people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Friday, December 9, 2016
Wednesday, December 7, 2016
Lumpy, chunky short period swell this morning. Knee to waist high with random corners scattered up and down the beach. Slightly tousled sea surface conditions with a very light mostly easterly breeze. Air temp is warmer than it has been but the water temps continue their downward spiral. Ebbing tide will work its' way down to a 2.4 low at 9:39am the back up to a 4.1 high at 2:30pm. Max flood current at 1pm. About 10 people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Friday, December 2, 2016
Short period due west wind swell fighting its way in against a middle high tide. Knee to waist high; shoulder on the sets. Shape is hit and miss with more consistency at Tres Palms, less so and smaller at the reef. Messy sea surface with fair conditions overall. No wind. Water temp in low 60's with an air temp of 50. 6.0 high tide at 10am then a -0.2 at 5pm. About 12 people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Thursday, December 1, 2016
Trending down: water and air temps. Trending up: morning high tides. Surf? There, but hard to compete with 6 foot morning tides. Conditions are clean with knee to waist high surf; chest high on the sets. Wind is offshore and doing a good job of holding up those peaks and grooming wave faces. A little too good; waves aren't breaking till well inside and the tide is still rising (6.2 at 9:30am). So we have a beautiful morning with good conditions but mediocre surf. Low tide of -0.3 at 4:15pm. About a dozen people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)