Thursday, December 29, 2016
Bigger and better out of the NW. Shoulder to head high, + sets. Fair to good shape although the high tide is staring to mess with it. Long enough lulls not to get hammered paddling out. Fairly smooth sea surface, no wind. Tide is high and still rising. Topping out at 6.4 feet at 8:30am. Low tide of -0.7 feet at 3:30pm. Air temps in high 40's and water temps in high 50's. About 30 people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Wednesday, December 28, 2016
Big, mean, lined up sets. Head high to + sets that are washing over the lineup. In between a more modest waist to chest high but the 6.0 tide has swallowed most of that. Only way to get some of those is to sit way inside; then of course the sets work you over. There are some lulls so getting out to the peak is not to bad. Smooth sea surface conditions and no wind. Air temps in mid 40's; water in upper 50's. No beach; water and waves right up against the bluffs. Low tide of -0.7 at 3pm. About 20 people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Friday, December 23, 2016
High tide, high waves, high runoff and more than a few judgment impaired people in the water. Waist to chest high with some shoulder to head high sets. Crummy crumbled shape. Bumpy, choppy sea surface; light swirling breezes. Not really a good surf day even if the ocean wasn't brimming with millions and millions of gallons of urban vomit. Must be true that ignorance is bliss. Ebbing tide (0.9 feet at 12:15pm). Next high tide of 3.6 feet at 6:15pm.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Thursday, December 22, 2016
Windy and struggling with a few surprises. Strong SE side shore winds with knee to waist high shore break. The surprises are in the form of shoulder to head high closed out set waves. Choppy surface conditions and heavily polluted water. High tide on the way out to a 1.5 low at 11:30am then flowing in to a 3.5 high at 5 pm. 4 people with very poor judgement and decision making skills in the water.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Wednesday, December 21, 2016
Clean but tiny high tide lines. Mostly knee to waist high with occasional chest high sets. Dark overcast skies with a moderate NW breeze. Slightly ruffled sea surface but not choppy or bumpy (yet). The reef has the best shape and size this morning. The beach break is very small and closed out. A 2.0 low tide at 10:15am then flowing in to a 3.6 high at 3:30 pm. 4 people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Monday, December 19, 2016
Saturday, December 17, 2016
Big, dirty, windy and cold. All that wind yesterday has whipped up some shoulder to head high out of control surf. Air temps in mid 40's; water temps in high 50's and....stiff offshore wind. Serious windchill and the water is about as polluted as it can get. Yet there are in fact, 2 not so smart people out. Tide is rising to 6.2 feet at 11am then back out to -0.7 at 6pm. Anyway, Monday is the earliest anyone should contemplate going back in the water; Tuesday would be better.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Friday, December 16, 2016
Thursday, December 15, 2016
Wednesday, December 14, 2016
Huge tidal swings; no surf. High tide and getting higher (7.6@8:30am). No surf, no wind; glassy sea surface conditions. A -1.9 tide shows up at 3:30 pm so the beach will be revealing some long submerged mysteries this afternoon. Recommend you get out an enjoy it since it looks like Thursday and Friday will be rainy and cold. No one out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Sunday, December 11, 2016
7 foot tide; tiny, local very short period wind swell and lumpy sea surface conditions. And cold water. And only one person out. Perfecto! There may be more to it when the tide backs off (-1.0 at 1:15pm) but that's an 8 foot tide swing so surf wise it's not looking all that great. But a low tide beach walk is worth considering.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Saturday, December 10, 2016
Small, breezy and clean. Slow tide burdened knee to thigh high surf this morning. Local wind swell stuff so not much punch to it. Some larger lines popping up but they just look promising before they flop over and mush out. Moderate NE breeze with a smooth sea surface. High tide on its way out to a -0.2 at 12:30pm. About 10 people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Friday, December 9, 2016
Wednesday, December 7, 2016
Lumpy, chunky short period swell this morning. Knee to waist high with random corners scattered up and down the beach. Slightly tousled sea surface conditions with a very light mostly easterly breeze. Air temp is warmer than it has been but the water temps continue their downward spiral. Ebbing tide will work its' way down to a 2.4 low at 9:39am the back up to a 4.1 high at 2:30pm. Max flood current at 1pm. About 10 people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Friday, December 2, 2016
Short period due west wind swell fighting its way in against a middle high tide. Knee to waist high; shoulder on the sets. Shape is hit and miss with more consistency at Tres Palms, less so and smaller at the reef. Messy sea surface with fair conditions overall. No wind. Water temp in low 60's with an air temp of 50. 6.0 high tide at 10am then a -0.2 at 5pm. About 12 people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Thursday, December 1, 2016
Trending down: water and air temps. Trending up: morning high tides. Surf? There, but hard to compete with 6 foot morning tides. Conditions are clean with knee to waist high surf; chest high on the sets. Wind is offshore and doing a good job of holding up those peaks and grooming wave faces. A little too good; waves aren't breaking till well inside and the tide is still rising (6.2 at 9:30am). So we have a beautiful morning with good conditions but mediocre surf. Low tide of -0.3 at 4:15pm. About a dozen people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Wednesday, November 30, 2016
Small, cold and dirty. The 72 hour hold period will be up tomorrow so until then it's surfing at your own risk. Surf is knee to waist high with the sea surface looking slightly rumpled. It might actually be pretty good if the tide wasn't so high. Air temp in the upper 40's so there's a definite bite in the air. A 6.3 high tide at 8:45am, ebbing to a -0.4 at 3:45pm. 1 person out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Friday, November 18, 2016
Conditions have cleaned up a bit but the swell direction is all west (270). That means we've got some glorious closed out surf this morning. Mostly waist to chest; head high and more on the sets. Biggest at Tres Palms but the reef is focusing some size as well. Somewhat inconsistent so if you time it right getting out to the lineup shouldn't be too bad, especially the southern route. Bright, clear blue skies with a slightly rippled sea surface. Air temps are low 50's; so I guess summer is gone. Incoming tide at a good stage right now with. 6.2 high at 11am and a -0.6 at 6:30pm. About 15 people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Thursday, November 17, 2016
A big seething cauldron of large, messy, unorganized, short period surf. Shoulder to head high; + on sets. Healthy east wind try to groom the ungroomable. It's pretty chaotic right now and bigger than it looks. Tide is rising to a 6.8 high at 10am then back out to a -1.0 at 5:30pm. About 10 people out; way way out, keeping alert for those hungry clean up sets.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Wednesday, November 16, 2016
Gloomy overcast morning with some small but building surf. The problem is with the building tide; 7.3 feet at 9:30am! That is really going to put a damper on it. Surf is in the waist to chest high zone with some larger set waves. Swell is not well organized at this point but may straighten up by this afternoon. The dolphins are getting all the best waves right now. Light swirling breeze mostly out of the SE. Huge tide swing today; from 7.3 at 9:30am to -1.4 feet at 4:30pm. If the wind stays down you might want to do a surf check around 1 to 2pm. About 15-20 people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Friday, November 11, 2016
It's large and in charge! Head to 1-2 feet overhead. And the sets, well, much bigger...Shape is fair but with a high tide that has the run up blasting the bluffs, form is a tad mushy. Glassy sea surface with a lot of mist hanging in the air. About 40 people out. Tide is just past its zenith of 6.1 feet and has begun its slow crawl to a 0.2 foot low at 1pm. Max ebb flow is at 10am.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Thursday, November 10, 2016
At Terra Mar this morning. Serving up some very mellow and very fun waist to chest high surf this morning (overhead sets). Glassy sea surface conditions, no wind, light crowd (15-20). Tide is kinda high for TM but it's breaking in all the right places; classic TM. Tide is falling quickly to a 1 foot low at noon then back up to a 5 foot high at 6pm.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Wednesday, November 9, 2016
A disorganized, inconsistent and lumpy west swell pushing in this morning. Waist to chest with some head high closed out sets. Ebbing tide and a swirling SW breeze. Slightly rippled sea surface. A large unruly crowd of 50+ trying to make the best of it. I'm sure there is some decent surf from this swell somewhere, just not at Del Mar. Tide bottoms out at 1.9 feet at 11:15am. High tide of 4.7 feet at 5pm.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
Friday, November 4, 2016
Surf's up! A beefy west swell is pummeling Del Mar this morning. Long fat head high lines with no complementary swell direction to break it up. In other words: closed out. Some occasional shoulders but mostly short, fast rides with a steep drop. Large crowd (50+) pretty evenly spread out with some clumps of people right on top of the reef. Rising tide topping out at 5.4 feet at 11:30am. Low of 0.6 feet at 7pm.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
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