Friday, September 11, 2015
Very steeply angled south swell this morning. The waves are rolling in almost sideways. Surf in the waist high plus zone this morning. These are what I call "leisure" waves. Slow and gentle; can be seen coming from a long way off; broad faces for some slow arcing turns, cutbacks and some tip riding closer to shore. Glassy conditions, calm wind and a light crowd (30 or so) spread out evenly across the lineups. And warm, warm water. The perfect playground.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
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