Wednesday, October 22, 2014

It's from the West and It's Big




Monster west swell is hitting the beach this morning. Looks like medium period stuff so it's fairly relentless. A real arm burner to get out. Chest to shoulder on the tweeners and overhead on the sets. Shape you ask? Lined up, walled up and closed out. Fair conditions with large rips north and south of the 15th street reef. Lots of white water. Lots of water moving around. And no beach. The ocean is right up against the bluffs.
She's hungry.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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