Finally a Friday!

Small knee to waist high surf this morning. Still feeling the effects of an early high tide. Poor to fair shape. An "...I've got nothing else to do so why not..." session. Some lump and bump on the water, calm winds. Water is around 70 and there's a crowd of 30+ on it.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Winding Down

The last of the NW swell has decayed into nothingness but there is still some small residual swell pushing through. Knee to waist high and slow with an occasional peak to keep you paddling back out. Good surface conditions; calm wind. About 25 people out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Smaller and more crowded

Large NW swell is gone and in its place we have knee to waist high surf and 30+ people in the water. Shape is poor overall but there is an occasional peak if you hunt it down. Sets are somewhat bigger but there's really to place to go on them. Surface conditions are fair with just a bit of ripple in the water. Wind is calm. 20 less people and it might be fun

That's Frank mooring his wave jet surfboard at the end of the video.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Larger than yesterday and...

There is a stiff, biting offshore wind. Medium to short period norʻ westerly swell throwing off some shoulder to overhead plus surf this morning. Shape is hit and miss but if you're in the right place... There's a crinkle on the water from the wind but no chop. Lots and lots of white water and a moderately strong south current. The line up has shifted 100 yards west. No crowd factor today. Have fun.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Surprise!

Larger this morning with mostly chest to shoulder NNW walls. Larger on the sets. Inconsistent quantity and quality wise. Some lump on the water but otherwise good surface conditions. Some light swirling off shore winds. The rate limiting factor this morning is the crowd. 50+ out right now and more and more and more arriving. 15th street has the crowd but it looks like 11th street has better shape and more size.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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It's from the West and It's Big

Monster west swell is hitting the beach this morning. Looks like medium period stuff so it's fairly relentless. A real arm burner to get out. Chest to shoulder on the tweeners and overhead on the sets. Shape you ask? Lined up, walled up and closed out. Fair conditions with large rips north and south of the 15th street reef. Lots of white water. Lots of water moving around. And no beach. The ocean is right up against the bluffs.
She's hungry.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Wave Fest!

Plenty of waves in tap this morning. Glassy conditions and some lulls. Chest to shoulder and larger in the sets. Holding their shape pretty well but with the tide almost high there's a lot of roll to them. So they're showing well enough but not breaking till pretty far inside. Moderate crowd of around 30 with water temp in the 70's. Now if we could just get some sun out here it would almost be trunkable.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary






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Gloomy Monday

Heavy, thick cloud cover dripping with moisture. Knee to waist high surf with poor to fair shape. Glassy conditions. High tide. A bit inconsistent but there's only 12 people out. And compared to yesterday it's deserted. Water still in the 70's.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary




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Large NW Swell

Shoulder to head high, larger in the sets. The surf has a lot of wobble on it and the shape is fair to poor plus. The sets are closed out with no where to go except right into the crowd on the inside lineup. There have been some misses, near misses and outright collisions. Surface conditions are good with no wind right now. Typical Friday crowd of 30-35 people. Water continues to be in the 70's.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Wha' 'Appened?

Angry skies with choppy, bumpy and lumpy conditions. This has really put a damper on the overall shape and form this morning. Think afternoon conditions. Only in the morning. Chest to shoulder; larger in the sets. Walled up with not much of a ride. Water is still warm though; checking in at around 71+ degrees.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Size is holding

Shape is slightly better and the crowd is smaller. Mostly shoulder to head high with fair shape. The reef has the best form while Tres Palmas is unloading on the inside sand bar. Good surface conditions with a light off shore breeze. Some lulls to help with the paddle out. The sets clean and well defined. An order of magnitude better than yesterday which was really raw, unfocused and not all that much fun. Watch out for the lobster pots in the line up and in the inside. Mor than a few were moved by yesterday's pounding surf.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Big West Swell

And fog. Head high to head high plus westy thumping the beach this morning. I'm calling it 6-7. Mostly walled up with a rare corner to slide into. Not Del Mar's favorite swell direction. The line up has thinned out from yesterday's high of around 60 to about 20 or so. Some lulls, making getting out there possible but you are still going to have to bull your way through tons of white water and take a few in the head. Glassy conditions, calm winds.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Large crowd

Small waves. Perfectly glassy. Bottom has dropped out of the swell with only some very tiny (knee to thigh) surf. Shape is not bad. The lulls in between sets is long, long, long. About 20 people out. But still, it's Friday so why not have a go?

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Swamped!

Still some swell in the water but the high tide has completely swallowed it. Nothing showing on the reef at all. The sets are offering up some fun knee high shore break glide but other than that, it's flat. Good surface conditions with 5 people out. It will probably improve when the tide drops out around 2:30 or 3. But the water is still in the 70's and the sun is out. So a body surfing session is a good option.

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Cloudy and warm

Almost tropical. Swell has shifted to a more westerly direction but there is still some south underneath it all. Waist to chest on the sets and mostly waist high in between. Fair shape. Glassy surface conditions. Tide is well up on the beach so it's breaking close in. 10 people out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Great conditions and...

Some decent surf. Waist to chest with fair to good shape and a very light crowd. Incoming tide so get down here fast if you wanna get a few turns in before work. Slight off shore breeze. Long lulls.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Why is everyone sitting so far outside?

Oh, that's why. Some very large sets pushing through out the back this morning. At least head high, maybe larger. But in between sets we're seeing mostly waist to shoulder high surf. Short period wind swell stuff so double ups are not uncommon. Fair shape and conditions. The sets are really stacking up at Tres Palmas where you can just make out the shapes of dolphins picking off the best and cleanest waves. About 20 people out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary



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