Driving by between sets my first thought is "...ah, it's calmed down some...". Then I see someone walking along holding the back 8 inches of what used to be a longboard. Fin and leash still attached. I found the rest of the board propped up against the bluffs suffering from a traumatic tail amputation.
Conditions aren't as clean as yesterday. There's a lot of surface bump. The surf is still in the head to overhead range and powerful. Shape is so-so. Line up is very shifty and there's a very strong northward current. The crowd is at about 75 and increasing.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Posts
No comments:
Post a Comment