Lobster Boats

Lobster season is underway and the boats are out early checking their traps. One can only hope they are having better luck than the few hapless surfers out in the lineup this morning. Very small scale windswell pushing in some ankle to knee high surf. Weak, weak, weak. Good conditions with some light offshore flow. 8 people out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Brite and Clear!

This autumn morning is stunning. The surf? Not so much. Soft knee to waist high slow rollers. Conditions are perfect; no wind, smooth sea surface light crowd. However, things are due to pick up later in the week so stay tuned.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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And now for your Friday letdown

Funky junky conditions and surf this morning. Waist to chest crumblers with poor shape. Even with the tide push the waves are not standing up. They will roll right underneath you until they become shorebreak. Unusually large crowd (40 or so) for the below average surf and conditions.

Tres Palmas has slightly better conditions and surf. More size, more juice.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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North Swell Prep...

An annual occurrence, 15th St is getting ready for winter. Sand berms are being shaped and pushed in front of the bluffs by city public works. And that's about the most exciting thing happening this morning. The surf has tapered off to almost nothing although there is a knee high shore break. Glassy sea surface with the morning fog just now beginning to push back from the coast. 2 people out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Kinda Slow

Mostly knee to waist high mush burgers. Very clean conditions with a glassy sea surface. The waves however, are barely able to push their way to shore. With the incoming tide that will only get worse. Small crowd of 8 people. All we need is for conditions to hold and the swell to increase.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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An increase in size?

The sets are in the waist to chest zone but virtually no surf between those rare sets. Waves are slow and soft; not breaking till well inside. Surface conditions are fair with just a bit of lump. However, there are only 5 people out. Best chance of scoring some rideable surf is at Tres Palmas. The reef is a no show. Incoming tide, high around 9am.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary😎


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Smaller but cleaner

Waist to shoulder high surf this morning with some of the cleanest conditions of the week. Some light and variable eddy winds this morning but those died down fairly quickly. Fair surface conditions, large crowd.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Messy

Extremely poor conditions. Lumpy and bumpy with short period westerly windswell providing the bulk of the surf. Slow, doubled up waist to maybe chest high with poor shape. Larger on the rare sets but they have no shape at all. If it cleans up it has potential to provide some average fun zone surf.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Broken Boards, Bruised Egos; Day 2

Driving by between sets my first thought is "...ah, it's calmed down some...". Then I see someone walking along holding the back 8 inches of what used to be a longboard. Fin and leash still attached. I found the rest of the board propped up against the bluffs suffering from a traumatic tail amputation.
Conditions aren't as clean as yesterday. There's a lot of surface bump. The surf is still in the head to overhead range and powerful. Shape is so-so. Line up is very shifty and there's a very strong northward current. The crowd is at about 75 and increasing.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary




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Broken Boards and...

Endless double overhead surf. Right now huge, powerful waves have completely washed out 15th street. Wave after wave after wave. The sets are being counted in time of duration, not the number of waves. The set I'm watching has been going on for about 15 minutes and is still going strong. It's big and it's bad.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Surf's Up...

Surf is in the waist to chest zone. Larger on sets. Shape and conditions however are not that great. Swell is somewhat disorganized, doubled up and dumpy. There is no wind so we have a glassy sea surface but it's got lumps and bumps all over it. If you do get into a wave you quickly discover that it's really sloooooow.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Meeeh...

Not bad. Not great either. Knee to waist high surf with fair shape. Slightly larger sets. Fair surface conditions; some slight bump but not affecting the surf. Moderate crowd (for a Friday) of about 25 people

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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More crowd...

Less surf. 30 people out desperately scratching to slide into calf to knee high broken up windswell. Mostly just a dumping shorebreak experience. Good surface conditions, incoming tide, warm water. Now, where's the surf?

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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A bit less

Wave shape, size and consistency have dropped off. Still some surf but long flat periods between sets. Knee to waist high with the best peak right on the reef. Fair shape. Good surface conditions. Water temp in the 70's. 12 people out

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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100% Pure Fun!

Epic conditions; flawless surf; 10 people out. Waist to shoulder going plus on the sets. Big, fat juicy lefts that only 15th can produce. A rare event indeed. Got some time? It's still happening!

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Better conditions

Still inconsistent surf. But waaaaaay less people (10). Perfect conditions. And like the past week the largest surf is south of the reef. Sets are running in the waist to chest range with some snappy corners. But there's a lot of sitting around waiting for the sets to appear. Still, with less than a dozen people out it's probably worth going out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary




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Grey Day

A marine layer is providing some shade this morning. Fair+ conditions with a light offshore breeze flitting here and there. Swell has changed to a more westerly direction so the sets are walled up and closing out. Mostly waist to chest going headhigh plus on the sets. Fair shape. About 20 people out in the line up.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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