Wednesday, August 27, 2014
Good swell direction
Clean conditions. Mostly chest to shoulder; overhead on the sets. Some lulls but it's pretty consistent for a south swell. Shape is fair+ but the sets are closed out board breakers. About 40 people out; fairly well spread out. Looks like 11th street has the largest surf. Crowd is less there. The sun is coming up over the hills and the tide is filling in.
Life is good.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
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