Friday, August 29, 2014

Short period windswell in the mix




The windswell is helping to break up the long southerly walls producing more peaky conditions. Mostly waist to shoulder and well overhead on the sets. Fair shape and form. No wind, hot sun and well over 60 people out. Look for the crowd to increase and the swell to decrease over the weekend.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, August 27, 2014

Good swell direction




Clean conditions. Mostly chest to shoulder; overhead on the sets. Some lulls but it's pretty consistent for a south swell. Shape is fair+ but the sets are closed out board breakers. About 40 people out; fairly well spread out. Looks like 11th street has the largest surf. Crowd is less there. The sun is coming up over the hills and the tide is filling in.

Life is good.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Hard to describe




I think funky is the best word for it. The wind blew hard all yesterday. That put a crinkle on the water for this morning. That crinkle has put a crumble on the surf. There is surf. Sometimes big surf. Long southerly walls of head and a half surf. Mostly walled up and not too many shoulders.

In between sets it's mostly chest to shoulder high. Crowd has thinned out; only about 15 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monday, August 25, 2014

Are your arms tired yet?




If they are there's no relief in sight. You can expect a whole lot more arm burn with the new swell about to push in. Plus the old swell isn't quite finished.
Not as clean today and the waves are walled up and warbled. Surf is in the shoulder to head to overhead range this morning. It's actually too much for 15th street to handle but about 20+ people are giving it a go anyway.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Friday, August 22, 2014

Better Surf




Larger crowd. You didn't really think you were the only one who knew about this new south swell did you? Waist to chest high with fair to good shape. Long lulls. Warm water. About 40 people out. Soon to be 41.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Danger!!




As I pull up the lifeguard tower blurts out: " attention surfers and swimmers, this area is closed due to lightening strikes. Please leave the water immediately". Please? I don't even want to go to the bluff to do this report but for some strange reason I do. And I suppose it's for the same reason that there are 12 people still out in the water.

But anyway, on to the surf report. Scattered lightening strikes, glassy conditions with waist to chest high surf. And. No. One. Out. Strange days indeed.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Still some swell.




But whereas yesterday it was all jumbled up, this morning the eddy winds are putting some serious bump on the water and crumble on the waves. Knee to waist high with some larger sets. Poor shape overall but there are some corners here and there. Water temp is down slightly to around 68. About 15 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monday, August 18, 2014

More surf...




Chest to shoulder; head high on the sets. Some surface texture and doubling up as the swells cross each other. The sets look lined up but they hold their shape and form offering up some zippy lefts, and rights. The water is warm and the crowd is light. So what's your excuse?

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Friday, August 15, 2014

Big Friday Crowd




Larger surf. Waist to chest high. Somewhat larger on the sets. Good surface conditions. Sets tending to be walled up and closed out. Long lulls. About 50 people out including.....Chuck. Back after a long layoff; good to see him back in the water.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Thursday, August 14, 2014

Slow going




Super low tide is not helping. Thigh to waist high and somewhat larger on the sets. Fair to poor shape which should get better as the tide fills in. Some swirling breeze, mostly offshore, which should back off as the morning progresses. The largest of the sets are walled up and closing out. About 20 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

It's not your imagination...




The sun is rising later and later so the dawn patrol is darker and darker. Autumn is making itself known.

Surf is ankle to knee high this morning with poor shape. The sets are waist high and offer the best chance of snagging a corner or two. Glassy conditions with a slight surface bump. Low tide. Water is 73; 5 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, August 12, 2014

Bumpy and...




Inconsistent. Not much surf in between the occasional south sets so there is a lot of waiting around. Onshore breeze has put some texture on the water and some crumble on the waves that are making it through. Sets are about waist high with fair to poor shape. Tide is incoming; about 2 hours off a 4am minus tide. 12 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monday, August 11, 2014

It's still. Very, very still




No wind and not too much in the way of surf either. Good tide push now but the waves are slow, weak and mushy. Even Kenny says "...not very good this morning..." Nice day weather wise but below average surf day. So you can feel ok about returning to work or whatever else besides surfing you had planned for today.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Friday, August 8, 2014

Finally it's all come together




Glassy conditions, good tide and a south swell that has settled down to give us some knee to waist to chest high beauties. Inconsistent but flawless left handers. Crowded but not as bad as yesterday. Good day to skip work or whatever!

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Thursday, August 7, 2014

It must be good...




Because there's over 50 people out in the lineup! And there are some waves. Those fickle, slow, fat southyez. Long waits between some waist to chest high sets. Some corners but mostly lined up with no where to go; especially with the hordes sitting inside. Right where you want to go. Good surface conditions with just a slight surface ripple from the NE flow.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, August 6, 2014

More push




And consistency this morning. Size has ticked up a notch as well. Good surface conditions, knee to waist high, slightly larger on the sets. Fair + shape with about 30 people out. Really warm water.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Has potential




It just hasn't been realized. Excellent surface conditions, slight offshore breeze and some SW swell. But the surf is pretty weak. Knee to maybe waist high with some rare larger sets. Even the set waves are backing off; not really breaking till they're shore break. Water is in the low 70's so that's good!

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone