Thursday, January 2, 2014

Sneaky




Good surface conditions. Surf is mostly in the waist to chest high range and breaking close to shore. There are some lulls so getting out isn't much of a problem. Then momma O gets sneaky and pitches you a set of about four waves, all lined up, overhead close outs. Which you weren't ready for since the take off zone is so far inside. So relax, ice cream headaches are par for the course this time of year.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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