Thursday, December 27, 2012
Messy!!
It's wild out there this morning. Head to head and a half bombs all over the place; and it's only an hour off a 6.0 tide. So this swell is packing some juice. Unfortunately conditions are ugly; chest high chop, and lots and lots of whitewater. This is going to take a few days to settle out I'm afraid. For those of you that took the week off in anticipation of scoring some good surf, I feel your pain.
It will get better I promise. Just as soon as you go back to work.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
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