Tuesday, November 1, 2011
A Bit More Surf
Grey skies and knee to waist high surf flicking through the green water. Not much juice to it but at least it is showing on the reef. There are some chest high westerly sets showing up every once in a while but there are long lulls to deal with. 6 guys out.
BTW, if you consider yourself a surfer or someone connected to the ocean you should buy this book, "Ghost Wave". It is one of the definitive books on Cortes Bank including it's history, a brief flirtation with becoming an island nation, it's "discovery" by the surfing world, some insights into what drives big wave surfers and the drama and conflict within that special surfing tribe. It's riveting. Puts you right there.
How long can you hold your breath?
No, you can't borrow my copy. Get your own.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
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