Freddy's, Phantom's, V-Land, Revelation's and Sunset

This section of the north shore where we are staying has a crazy amount of surf breaks.  Some seem to be right on top of one another but after a while you can see the difference in the breaks.  And getting around is a lot easier on a bike.  Better access to places; no worries about your car getting broken into and the bike path is very scenic and shady.  

Started out today by traveling one quarter mile to the north east to check out V-land.  Also in that same general area are breaks named Freddy's (just west of V-land), Phantom's (a reef outside of Freddy's) and Revelation's (a point just to the east of V-land).  Still really windy and the swell has dropped a notch or two but still big enough.

Phantom's

Freddy's

V-land

More V-land

Inside bowl at V-land

At one point, something didn't smell right.  In fact there was a distinct stench in the air.  The cause?  A rotting moray eel.

The TC contest was on today at Sunset with slightly cleaner conditions but not as big.  The local boyz tell me that probably there won't be a contest tomorrow as the event organizers are going to wait for Thursday when it's supposed to be really big.  These photos are from heat number 8.

A sequence of the wave of the heat

Have a good one

Aloha

Gary 

All Photos Copyright Gary Erbeck

The North Shore; 7 Mile Miracle?

By the time we got our bags, picked up our rental car, hooked up the GPS, adjusted the rear view mirrors, fiddled with the AC; well you get the idea.  It took a while to start for the north shore from Honolulu.  It was a Sunday afternoon so the traffic was light and getting out of Honolulu on H1 was a breeze.  In fact it was very smooth sailing till just past the "Welcome to Haleiwa" sign.  That's when I discovered to true meaning of the term "7 mile miracle".  It's a miracle if you can traverse the entire 7 miles before the end of the day.  And the traffic was particularly bad because; it was Sunday, there was a substantial swell running, the Vans Triple Crown event at Sunset was happening (day 2) and of course, we were trying to make it to the house we were renting before it got dark.

The one good thing about the traffic was the snail's pace allowed you to check out every surf break along the way without having to worry about swerving into the oncoming traffic lane or crashing into the car in front of you.  But by the time we arrived at Sunset Beach the event was over for the day and the light was fading fast.  But I did manage to snatch a few photos before the sun went behind Kaena Point.

The judges stand for the Vans TC Sunset Beach

Threesome; plenty of room though.

The waves were large, 15 to 20 feet, but not north shore large.  Plus the wind was howling at about 25 - 30 knots and the swell was not all that organized.  Still, there were some good surfers out; defying the conditions and getting some, at times, spectacular rides.

Frothy beast

No, he didn't make it.  But he paddled right back out

Got rocker?  What's needed for Sunset.

Looking west 

Check out the spindrift on this set

Setting up for....

THIS!

The inside bowl

This thing pinched down on him HARD!

Now it's time to get on the beach cruiser bike and roll on over to Sunset to see if the event is on for today.  The swell was supposed to have dropped off overnight so it may not be happening.  More later.

Have a good one
Aloha from Oahu
Gary

All Photos Copyright Gary Erbeck

Big Friday in Del Mar; Photos at 11.

It was big this morning.  Even with the super high tide some 8 foot plus sets managed to push through.  Kept the crowd down.  Check it out:

Nobody even comes close to these guys; master surfers

The peak at 20th Street, Del Mar

Marco jams off the bottom; at the reef

Set wave

Working the inside section

Zipper

There were more than a few of these with the westerly swell direction

Catch and release

A very shapely wave at 19th Street

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

All Photos Copyright Gary Erbeck

Mackin'!

It's from the WNW, it's big and it's mean. Head and a half easy. Long fat lines with fair to poor shape. Al. This and it's almost a 7 ft high tide. Can you imagine how big it would be with a medium or low tide.

The line up is a thinner too. 8 people as opposed to 30+ yesterday. Sun's out though so I'm going to grab a few frames to post later on.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Unturkey Day Surf is Here

Clean conditions, off shore breeze and substantial westerly swell. Head high+ on the sets and it's high tide so it's only going to get bigger as the tide drops. Stacked up lines out to the horizon. Shape is marginal due to westerly swell angle. 20 people out. The high tide is making for an easy paddle out but that will change with the tide.

Spare the turkey, eat tofu instead today; it's way better for you and a turkey will thank you.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary



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Co-co-co-cold!

Decent surface conditions, no wind, about an hour off a 6.0 high tide, with some waist to chest high sets showing the potential once the tide backs off. 10 guys out. A balmy 44 degrees. But its a sunny 44 degrees. So grab your long board and come on out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Big, Fat and Dirty

Plump, head high+ (on the sets) poo waves pushing through the dropping high tide. Not much going on in between the sets. Clean surface conditions; off shore breeze; cold, in and out of the water. If not for the urban vomit from last night this would be a surf day. There are 8 people out frolicking in the diarrhea despite it.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Some Wind Swell

Lines are showing; small but more than we've had all week. Moderate NE wind (more like a breeze actually). Waist high shore break at best. Nothing to get excited about.

Also, there is no place to park close by. The lot is full of porta potties and shade structures for the 3 day breast cancer awareness walk which begins this morning at the Del Mar Fairgrounds. Should get interesting once the crowd of moms and dads arrives dropping off their groms for surf PE collides with the walkers who should be arriving at about the same time.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Very Clean

And very tiny. Ankle to knee high shore break; basically flat, flat, flat. That, however, doesn't seem to be an issue with the 3 people out. But as a grom once told me, "you can always have fun surfing".

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Ultra Glassy

Like a mirror! Some small (waist high) inside lines are about the only thing happening this morning. There's just too much water and not enough swell for anything else. 10 people out including Chuck and Luke (is he playing hooky?). I was lured into going out in similar conditions yesterday and spent a lot of time sitting and looking seaward hoping for that one set wave to head my way; didn't happen. So this morning I watch.

BTW, this is what was spewing forth from the storm drain at 15th street yesterday afternoon; nice.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Still Some Swell Out There

Clean conditions, 2-3 ft with some larger sets. Fair shape but the high tide is slowing it down some. John, Jet and Chuck are out and the groms have not yet arrived. Water is cold so it's booty time (at least for me it is). I think the winds are going to get funky soon so this is your window today.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Who Named the Pacific Ocean

And why? Well, it's just about as flat as it gets. And that's too bad because there is a nice offshore breeze with a warm edge to it. Going to be a nice autumn day here in San Diego.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Starting to Clean Up

More organized than it had been for the last 4-5 days but still mostly short period wind swell stuff trying desperately to push through the 5.0 high tide. Mostly waist, maybe chest hog on the sets. Glassy conditions with a light offshore breeze. 2 people out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Love that Dirty Water

Large (5-6 ft) very short period wind swell. Clean and peaky with fair shape. Offshore breeze. But the water is very very dirty; the air is very cold and the water temps have plummeted. Still, there is one idiot in the lineup. Must be challenging his immune system.

BTW, in case you hadn't noticed, the 15th street camzone cam is not really at 15th street anymore. It's up on the lifeguard tower at 20th street. It will stay there at least until the new lifeguard headquarters are built at 17th street.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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