Get up, Stand up!

Shoulder high, head high sets. Fair minus shape. Glassy, fat and sassy. High tide is messing with the overall shape but there are some crisp corners popping up every once in a while. Line up is shifting all over the place so you need to be in the right place to get up, stand up.

15 people out with more arriving every minute. Plus I just talked Luke into going out, Mike is already out there.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Ocean is the same

Color as the sky; grey. Glassy condition with peaky, high tide conditions. Waist to chest high, fair shape, 6 guys out. This is the best it has looked in some time. Think I'll go out and snag a few.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Bigger Than

Yesterday. No photo today, sorry technical issues with the site. Chest to shoulder high trying to push through the swamp tide. Fair shape, fair conditions. A little slow but definitely more juice than Sunday. Looks like there is a strong south current. Pick and choose corners at times. 3 people out.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Storm Surge

Post storm conditions. A hacked up, jumbled up mess this morning. Still, some good size waves are able to push through all the clutter. Overhead stuff that on a cleaner, not day after rain situation would be drawing surfers like a rare earth magnet.

BTW, this is the last CSSR for this week. I'm heading off to Flagstaff tomorrow for a look at Northern Arizona University with my daughter. She's been accepted to grad school there. So we've decided to go check it out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Better Than Yesterday

But still not very good. Has some size, head high, and the shape is better than yesterday but kinda sectiony and jumbled up. Set waves are closing out and tightly spaced. 12 guys out trying to track down that occasional shoulder but not having much success. Surface conditions are pretty clean and very little wind.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

How much LARGER...

Can it get? No photo today; too foggy. 8-10 foot monsters closing out from Restaurants to the reef. Shaking the ground.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

LARGER Still!

Size has picked up overnight but there is a corresponding shape deterioration as well. Lumpy, bumpy and high tide. Giant fog bank offshore has begun to move in.

Solid head high to way bigger than anyone's head pushing through the 5.4 high tide. Mostly closing out but there is the occasional pick and choose shoulder. About 8 guys out; evenly split between the reef and the sandbar. No one out at Restaurants.

One guy just walked down the ramp with a 7 foot fish under his arm. Took one good, close up look and turned around and walked right back up. Southwest wind is beginning to spin up.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Photos from this morning's "It's LARGE" session

The waves were substantial this morning and a dozen or so of the tribe, including Mike and Rodney, ventured out at 15th street.  And, after battling the fierce south currents, taking it numerous times on the head in the impact zone and funky conditions a few managed to snag some waves.  Actually, I think the best surfers out today were the pelicans.  They were everywhere and picking off the biggest, cleanest set waves as others were scrambling to get out of the way.  And guess what?  Not a janitor in sight!

Here is some eye candy from this morning .

It was pretty stacked up this morning; especially the sets

Sometimes they looked like this....

 Most of the time like this.

Strangest thing I saw this morning; he just sat there and let this wave break on his head, didn't even try to move.

Mike hooks into a big left.

Pretty huh?

Dive, dive, dive!

Straight into oblivion

Wave of the day

This did not end well.

Smash that lip!

It's LARGE

Consistently head to head and a half high. Surface conditions are kinda funky as is the shape. Paddling out this morning with require some animal assistance. You know, ducks and turtles. Trust me, you are going to be tired when you finally make it out to the line up, which, by the way, has shifted about 50-60 yards further out than normal. 6 guys out.

Yes it's big but this is not the kind of swell that DM handles particularly well. The sandbar at Restaurants is bigger than the reef but is closing out. Lots and lots of white water everywhere. Haven't seen one person get a ride the whole time I've been here.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Tsunami Surge Video; Maui

For anyone who has ever been to Lahaina, you know exactly where this is.  Good video of a tsunami surge at the harbor entrance.



Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Tsunami Advisory

By now most of you have heard of the earthquake in Japan and the resulting Tsunami there and the one moving ashore in Hawaii right now. Ours is scheduled to arrive at 8:41 this morning. So of course Chuck and I are here at 15th street waiting to see what's what.

On to the surf report. Can't see too much; socked in with fog. Kenny was out and said it's totally jumbled up. So, I'm going to go out on a limb here and say it's not very good; not a surf day.

Update on our Tsunami watch later this morning.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

If You Have a

Kayak or outrigger canoe today is the day to break 'em out. Mostly flat with the occasional waist high sets. Clean surface conditions and clear water will make for an awesome kayaking day. In spite of the lack of waves there are 7 people out. Paddling here and there, trying to chase down those elusive bumps in the water.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Low Tide Lines

Stacked up, waist high, left over windswell lines. Poor to fair shape; best at the reef. Restaurants is closing out. Excellent surface conditions with little to no wind. 7 people out.

New south swell is supposed to arrive this afternoon. We'll see.

Check out this sun photo taken by Alan Freidman yesterday in Florida. Look carefully at the upper right side; yep, that's the space station with the space shuttle attached crossing in front of the sun!


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Aftermath

Wind swell is dominating this morning. Waist to shoulder to head high+ on the sets. Clean surface conditions with peaks popping up all over the place. Some long dumping walls too. Must be some big ones out there; I see two guys sitting waaaaay outside. I mean way way out there. Then again it could just be the current.

The reef is kinda mushy compared to what's going on at Restaurants (I've renamed Tres Palms). Definitely some pitching, grinding, throaty barrels there. Rodney says that's where he is going out. He's excited.

I'm going to see if I can get some photos.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Good Friday

Overcast with glassy conditions, small crowd and some waist high peelers. Larger set waves. The left off the reef is working pretty well. 12 guys out. Looks fun. Probably need to hit it before the 8:30, 5.0 high tide does.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Location:Grand Ave,Del Mar,United States

More of the same

Great weather, good conditions, no crowd. Marginal surf. South swell is predominate this morning (read inconsistent) and the waves that do manage to push through (waist high) are being swallowed by the 5.0 high tide which doesn't peak until 7:45 am. It so wants to be a surf day! I think the lower tide will help but by that time the winds will have switched around to on shore. Maybe tomorrow?


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Location:15th St. DM

What??????

Luke, Mike and I standing here freezing our nads off. STRONG east winds! Combine that with the high tide and the swell doesn't have a chance. Waist to chest high rollers trying to make it happen. A bit of a south showing today, making it really inconsistent. Plus the wind chill has pushed the temp down to the high 30's (just my best guess). Not sure even the sun can help cast a warm glow this morning.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Location:15th Street DM