Friday, January 29, 2016




Ugly, ugly, ugly. Shoulder to head high closed out junk, much larger sets. A giant,seething, churning rip (from in front of Jakes north to 50 yards past the ramp south and out a quarter mile) has turned the inside to a toilet bowl of chop, white water and treacherous currents. There has to be a better place to surf today. Calm winds; moderately bumpy sea surface. 3 people out; a few more trying to get out but not having much luck. Tide is low and will fill in to a 4.1 high at noon.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Thursday, January 28, 2016




Starting to line up. Forerunners of new swell are beginning to show. Shoulder to head high; larger sets. Shape is a tad walled up with some pick and choose corners but mostly closing out. Slightly rippled sea surface; not crisp, not clean. A moderate crowd of 30; trying to get on it before it jumps up to the predicted 10-12 foot stuff. Which Del Mar does not handle so well. Tide is low but has begun its flow to a 4.7 high at 11:30am.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Tuesday, January 26, 2016




Small and close in. Waist to chest high with good sea surface conditions. Larger set waves. More focused than yesterday with some decent corners to swing into. Light offshores and a light crowd (10). Tide is on the rise to a 6.9 high at 10am then back out to a -0.4 at 5pm.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Monday, January 25, 2016




Not as wild and crazy. Swell has dropped and the period has shortened up. Chest to shoulder high with occasional head high sets. Consistent; no lulls. Some doubling up. Kind of soft and a challenge to get into at this point in the tide. But it's looking eminently more surfable than the last week and a half. Good sea surface conditions; no wind. 12 guys out. 6.3 high tide at 9:30am; ebbing to a -0.8 at 4:30pm, so a good walking beach this afternoon.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary