Tuesday, April 7, 2015

Westerly windswell




Small knee to thigh high surf this morning. Conditions have improved from yesterday but the waves continue to be meager and meek. Tide is on the rise to 4.0 around noon but not even the tide push is going to help. Cooler temps with a light easterly breeze.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monday, April 6, 2015

Aftermath




This is what the ocean looks like the day after strong onshore winds; messy and hacked up. Waist high junk. Poor conditions, low tide and (the good news), no crowds. This is going to take a few days to sort out (assuming no more winds like we had on Sunday). So relax, be patient and someone please sacrifice one of your old surfboards in an effort to generate some decent surf.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Friday, April 3, 2015

Looking kinda raggedy...




Unfocused short period chest to shoulder high surf mostly out of the WNW. Light offshore breeze and abundant sunshine. Conditions are good but the surf is well, what I call raggedy. No shape and waves right on top of each other. No rhyme, no rhythm, no reason. Tide is rising to a 5.0 at 9:40am.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Change in direction




The formerly predominant south swell has vanished and a sizable west swell has moved in to fill the void. Surf is in the shoulder to head high zone. Light offshore breeze. Tide is rising. Tres Palms is absolutely pitching as is the south peak. The reef is a bit softer but it has the most size. Sets pushing 7-8 feet. Shape is sketchy with absolutely no where to go on the sets. About 5 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone