Friday, April 6, 2012

Still not very good




Or as one surfer put it as she was getting back in her car to drive away; "Damn!". Yep, it's been pretty crappy for more than a week now and it's not showing any signs of getting better anytime soon.

Marginal conditions, stacked up, doubled up, short period shoulder to head high wind swell. Even with the offshore breeze it still sucks. One person out. But it is Friday and the Padres are off to a losing start so...

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Thursday, April 5, 2012

Lumpy Gravy




South wind has chopped it up early this morning. Waist to shoulder high maybe head high on the sets. Short period WNW wind swell doubled up and lacking juice and shape. But the south wind is what has made it so bad this morning. If not for that there would be some surfable waves or as someone who just got out of the water put it when I ask how his session was; "it's not as good as it looks". And it doesn't look that good. So there you have it.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Still Funky




A lot of swell sticking around but it's pretty disorganized, lumpy, large and breaking waaaaay outside. I can barely make out the guys sitting furthest out. Poor shape with lots of water moving around; tons of white water. Biggest sets are still way overhead. Long lulls make the paddle out not too bad but then what? Haven't seen anyone on a wave yet. I think point breaks may be the best bet today.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monday, April 2, 2012

Muy Grande




Well, it's large and in charge. Poor surface conditions from all the wind; tons of white water everywhere; 8-10+ close out waves all over the place. Very strong south current. T'aint fit for man nor beast. But it's a spectacular sight. No one out. This is going to take a few days to shake out. In the mean time

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone