Friday, May 29, 2015




Clean, glassy with long lulls. Chest to shoulder high with some +'s here and there. Breaking a little closer in than you would think. Tres Palms is biggest but walled up. Reef has the best shape but smaller and and slower. 11th street has the biggest waves and the smallest crowd. About 30 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Thursday, May 28, 2015




Good conditions, glassy sea surface. A genuine chest to head high power packed south swell. Sets of 5-6 waves are going a bit over head and purging the line up. Lined up and quirky, if you're in the right spot you can snag a corner that will run across the length of the reef. Oh, and the local dolphin pod is putting on quite a surfing exhibition. Behind the wave take offs, exiting with a flying leap out the back; spectacular stuff. 3.7 high tide now, dropping to a 1.2 around 1 o'clock this afternoon. About 30 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Great Expectations




20 or more people out in the lineup hoping to score some south swell beauties. Not to be however. There is definitely a south swell on the water but it's being met with high tide, onshore winds and dreary, drippy weather. Conditions are poor to say the least. Surf is chest to shoulder high with some larger sets. Walled up and closing out on the sets. Crumbly and shapeless, this is going to be a below average surf day. Find a place with some protection from the wind and you might get lucky.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Well, at least it's not windy...




Yet. Clean conditions, glassy sea surface. Surf in the knee to waist high zone with fair to poor shape. Larger closed out sets. SW direction. Best conditions in the last 2 weeks. 9 people out. High tide now with a 0.9 low around 11am.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary



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Sunday, May 24, 2015

Waves are up!




But so is that pesky SW wind. It has turned the surf into waist to chest high slop and made conditions very poor. Tide is on the way out to a 0.4 low around 9:30am. So you can expect the size and shape to suffer for it.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Friday, May 22, 2015

Whitecapping




Blown out. Victory at Sea conditions. Total white cap scene. Waves/surf is small; knee to waist high. Tide on the way out to a -0.3 at 7:30am. High tide at 2:30pm (3.8).

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Thursday, May 21, 2015

Minus tide




And a nasty south west wind is on it. Crumbly knee to thigh high junk. Chunky and choppy sea surface. Poor conditions overall. Nothing to ride. Nothing to see.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monday, May 18, 2015




Overcast skies, low tide and small surf. Weak calf to knee high surf this morning with good surface conditions. Occasional larger set waves that close out on the inside sandbar. A sparse crew this morning; only 6 people out. Incoming tide with a 4.6 around 11am. A very slight southwest breeze.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Friday, May 15, 2015

So very very glassy




Also so very very dirty. Lots of rain. Lots of runoff. Lots of urban drool in the water. Condition wise it's the cleanest it's been all week. But the poo index meter's needle (it's analog, ok?) is pegged in the danger zone. About 100 on a scale of 1 to 10.

Glassy smooth sea surface, light offshores and small ankle to knee high surf. Beautiful actually. But this is a look but don't touch situation. We will have bad water quality throughout the weekend. Sorry. So why not head over to the Boardroom International Surfboard Show at the Del Mar Fairgrounds instead? See you there.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Wednesday, May 13, 2015




A couple of swells in the water this morning but the short period west swell is dominant. Waist to chest high with fair to poor shape. Clean conditions. The high tide is slowing things down; lots of doubled up waves. Mostly breaking on the inside sandbars. About 16 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, May 12, 2015




Short period westerly windswell providing junky waist to chest high surf. Poor shape and marginal conditions. SE wind has put some bump on the water and crumble on the waves. Tide is high but on its way out to a 0.1 low around 11:30 this morning. About 10 people out. If you've got something else to do this morning, do it. Not missing anything here.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, May 6, 2015

Cleaner conditions




Knee to waist high surf this morning. Just coming off a negative tide that is not helping with shape. Mostly close outs on the inside sandbar with and occasional short shoulder on the infrequent sets. SE breeze is trying to get going. The peak has shifted north of the reef where most of the 15 people in the line up are clumped. Surf is below average. The low tide is making for another superb beach walk morning.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Tuesday, May 5, 2015

Terra Mar




Sloppy, wind (NW) blown waist to chest high surf at Terra Mar this morning. Poor surface conditions. The kelp beds are helping to knock down the wind chop a bit but it's still bumpy out there. Surf is inconsistent. Head high plus sets are lined up and breaking across Middles to Igors. Not a good day for Terra Mar. 15 people out and plenty of parking.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Monday, May 4, 2015

South Swell




Chest to shoulder this morning. But poor conditions. Northwest wind has put bump and chop on the water. The waves are there but this is not the classic Surfer mag south swell surf. In fact it's the opposite. Deep marine layer, drizzle, on shore winds and crumbly, shapeless surf. About 10 people out. And whales spouting and cavorting just outside the lineup.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Friday, May 1, 2015

I can't tell




You much about the surf this morning. Dense fog has shut down visibility to 100 yards or less. But from what folks are telling me it's big and messy with a strong southerly current. Overhead sets that you can't see till they're right on top of you. Broken leashes and long swims. Predominantly WNW short period windswell stuff. The shore break is about chest high and closing out. Lots of white water. It sounds large.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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