Not done yet

This swell is still producing some juice. Chest to shoulder with plus sets and fair to good shape. Breaking fairly close in except for the sets which are tagging everyone. Still inconsistent and the peak is shifting around but things are looking pretty good this morning. Just ask the 25 guys and 1 harbor seal in the line up. And yes, that's Luke in the video...

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Gray on grey

Thick marine layer this morning. Surf is in the shoulder to head high range and larger on the sets. Shape is fair; sets are closed out. Overall, the surf and conditions are far less junky than over the weekend. The swell seems to have smoothed out and has more focus and clarity. Some inconsistency but that comes along with south swells.


High tide is affecting shape and causing waves to roll right underneath you. About 16 people out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Building swell...

Larger than yesterday. Running in the chest to shoulder to head high zone. In smooth water. That's the good news. The bad news is; not much there in the way of shape or form. The sets are long, thick, lined up closed out walls. This swell direction is not working well for 15th street. Too much west, not enough south. If say maybe the cliffs to the south or points further north. Just not here.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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A drop off...

In size, but slightly better form and conditions. Slow rolling waist to chest high surf with fair shape. Short period wind swell with some doubling up. A slight riffle in the sea surface but smooth looking overall and a medium tide. All in all not a bad morning for surf if you don't mind sharing the line up with the surf PE crew. Which can actually be someone entertaining at times. About 20 people out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Still trying to sort itself out

Somewhat cleaner than yesterday but still pretty jumbled up. Falling tide and the short period nature of the swell are contributing to the confusion. Mostly waist to chest high with head high and plus on the sets. Moderately lumpy sea surface conditions. Shape is fair to poor with the sets mostly closing out but there are some corners here and there on the in between stuff. Tide will reach bottom at about 8:30am which will have negative impact on shape. From then on it's a race between a more favorable tide and the onshore winds turning on. But on the other hand it's going to be a glorious day so get out there and enjoy it.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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More swell but...

It's messy. Very disorganized and sloppy. Chest to shoulder high and going well overhead on the not infrequent sets. Short period wind swell with back to back to back waves. Lumpy sea surface conditions with a light easterly breeze. Poor to poor plus shape. Mostly closed out. About a dozen people out; sitting way, way outside.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Should have been here...

Yesterday. Or the day before. Or the day before that. Very small and very anemic surf this morning. Very short period local windswell stuff. Low, low tide too. Knee to waist high, poor shape. Smooth sea surface conditions, light NE breeze. 5 people out. Perfect sand for that walk from Del Mar to Flat Rock and back.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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One of life's great mysteries '

Less waves; more people. Why is that? Huge crowd this morning; on the order of 35 or more. Good conditions with waist to chest high surf. Some westerly swell mixing in with an underlying south and we are getting a bit peaky. Sets are larger but fewer. Fair to good shape on a rising tide. And it's Friday. So what are you waiting for?

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Largest day this week

Glassy conditions, chest to shoulder to head high surf. And a tide that is racing in to a 6.4 high at 9am. It's already high enough to affect size and shape. Most are rolling on through to the inside before breaking; mostly closing out. But there are some corners here and there. A little inconsistent. About 15 people out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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More surf

Crappy conditions. Funky southwest wind has really put a crinkle on the water. Sort of "afternoon conditions in the morning" thing. It's pretty hacked up. Anyway, on to the waves. Short to medium period waist to chest high mush burgers. Tide is high and still rising to a 6.4 at 8:30am. Not much out there I'm afraid. 10 surf PE groms out in the water.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary




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Still some swell

But it's being swallowed up by the 6.1 high tide. Waist to shoulder with fair shape; good surface conditions. Sets are showing in the usual spots but just rolling on through to the inside section. Where they can become a racetrack or a close out; hard to predict. Just have to go and see what happens. A lower tide should improve things.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Cleaning up and looking good

Glassy conditions on tap this morning. And a new swell has kicked in. Chest to shoulder and larger on the sets. Fair to good shape and it should get better in about an hour or so as the tide drops some more. Just a tad inconsistent. The peaks to north and south of reef are providing the best waves right now. No crowd to speak of; 5 or 6 people.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Sun's Out

Surf, not so much. Although it's twice the size as the beginning of the week, the surf is only knee to waist high. And weak. Very, very weak. But something's better than nothing, right? Fair sea surface conditions with some left over lump and bump from yesterday's winds. Tide is on the way out with a low around 10:30 am. If not for the surf PE crew I doubt if there would be more than 5 people in the water. But as it is, there are 25 to 30. Wait, make that 29. Clay is just getting out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary



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Small but Clean

Surf is still very tiny, in the ankle to calf range but conditions are nigh perfect. Incoming tide, no wind, smooth sea surface and no crowd. Expect the surf to remain on the small to tiny side throughout the week. On the bright side, the visibility in the water is getting better and better. Perfect for diving, snorkeling and what have you. So get out there and look around.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Tiny Bubbles

Tiny waves. Weak and steeply angled swell is pushing in ankle to knee high surf. Fair amount of surface bump left over from yesterday's onshore winds. Incoming tide, light easterly breeze. A below average surf day but there are at least 6 people out diving the reef.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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There's a new swell in town.

New building SW swell is producing inconsistent chest to head high surf this morning. Sets are a bit walled up and closing out but in between there are some nice looking corners. Unfortunately the poo index meter is in the yellow zone but by tomorrow I think it will move to green. Tide is still on the rise, peaking at 5.8 feet around 8:30 am. It's a beautiful day; get out there and enjoy it.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Clean lines. Dirty water

High tide and a rainbow! Waist to chest high surf rolling in this morning. Some larger sets. Short period, close order stuff. No one out. Stiff offshores and brilliant sunshine (for now). Poo index is maxed out and with more rain on the horizon for today, it's going to be the end of the week till water quality is decent.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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