Tuesday, July 29, 2014

This is so...







Disappointing. Same meager fare; calf to knee high and weak. Not much more to say about it. So, I'm heading off to Lake Michigan where I'm hearing reports of overhead surf. More on that tomorrow.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

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Monday, July 28, 2014

It may look ok...




But we had a ton of runoff yesterday from the thunderstorms at the coast. So, I'm going to say that the poo index is around 10; maybe 11. But the tide is still at minus stage and there aren't any waves to speak of so no worries about missing some epic surf, right? Right? WTF, there are people out in the water! Which would be surprising in any event since it's totally flat. But combined with the extreme poo index it's mind boggling. But then again, I'm surprised by people's poor decisions all the time...

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Friday, July 25, 2014

Way crowded...




40+ people and growing. Must be Friday cause the surf and conditions aren't that great. Short period WNW swell mixed in with a smaller, longer period SW swell is producing waist high lines. Sets are somewhat larger but mostly walled up and closed out. SW wind is messing with surface conditions producing afternoon like chop in the morning. Folks are evenly spread out across the line up so there is a chance for a corner or two all by yourself. Rising tide.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Thursday, July 24, 2014

More swell




Funky conditions. An increase in southerly swell has pushed up surf heights to around thigh to waist high. This is colliding with some short period west windswell. Surface conditions are still somewhat choppy further affecting size and shape. Doubling up is fairly common but there are some corners here and there offering some short mushy rides. About 15 people out. Overcast skies. Calm winds.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Chomp...




Sorry, I mean chop (damn spell check)! Small scale very short period confused windswell. Lots of chop adding to the general unruliness. Dawn patrol is already out of the water and on their way to work. Leaving two soft toppers in the line up pitching and yawing.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Tuesday, July 22, 2014

I was wrong...




It actually did get worse. Even smaller this morning and lumpy bumpy surface conditions. 0-1 foot at best. But the sun is out, the water warm and there's a concert on the grass this evening. Life is good.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

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Monday, July 21, 2014

It can only get better...




The swell has vanished so we are left with ankle high waves breaking in ankle deep water. For the truly desperate only. The very definition of "flat". BTW, the sting rays are out there (just ask the guy on the beach clutching his foot in pain and bleeding from a puncture wound at his instep) so shuffle, shuffle, shuffle.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Friday, July 18, 2014

Large crowd; Small waves




Knee to waist high; slightly larger on the sets. Glassy surface conditions with a hint of an offshore breeze. It's a south swell direction but, for Del Mar anyway, there's too much west in it to produce those big fat lefts running down the reef. So what we end up with is a warbled, confused mush burger. Tide is dropping but the water is warm and the living is easy. Right?

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Thursday, July 17, 2014

More size




Waist to chest to shoulder high waves this morning. Largest on the sets. Walled up with poor to fair shape. Good surface conditions; dropping tide. 25 people out.

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Wednesday, July 16, 2014

A Wee Bit of Morning Sickness




South winds have put some bump on the surface and a crumble on the waves this morning. Combined with a -0.2 tide and we have weak thigh to knee high surf. The water is warm and that is enough to have lured about 20 people out to the line up, such as it is. A below average surf day here.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Tuesday, July 15, 2014

Ahhhh, The Ocean!







Nothing makes you appreciate the ocean as much as a 2 week road trip to the interior of this country. Yes, Zion has some amazing canyons to hike and the north rim of the Grand Canyon can make you gaze in wonderment for hours on end. But it's not the ocean; nothing else compares.

So, under gloomy skies we have small (thigh to waist with slightly larger sets), inconsistent surf with good surface conditions and almost tropically warm water. About 90" off a minus tide so the shape is a bit drained but should improve with more water. About 13 people out.

YouTube Video


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary



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Thursday, July 3, 2014

And now, for something completely different...




The surf has vanished. Calf high dribblers in knee deep water. No sets. Glassy conditions, dropping tide. A below average surf day in Del Mar. So break out the kayak, paddle board or what have you if you're craving some ocean motion. 10 people out.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Wednesday, July 2, 2014

Smaller




Surf has dropped in size but conditions are really good. Knee to waist with slightly larger sets. Fun glassy faces. Wind is calm to light and tide has just bottomed out. About 15 people out. Looks fun.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Tuesday, July 1, 2014

Incoming tide, surf holding





But the SW eddy winds are already messing with the shape. Inconsistent with waist to chest high surf; slightly larger in the sets. Shape is fair but rapidly deteriorating into the eddy crumble. Surface ripple is turning into surface bump as wind speed picks up. A decent summer crowd of about 30 evenly spread out across the lineup. Warm warm water.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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