Wednesday, April 30, 2014

Windy Wednesday




Small drained out surf. Knee to waist high dumpers providing the struggling morning crew with a precious few nanoseconds of ride. Offshore winds are blazing but the surf is so small and the water so shallow there's not much it can do for surf quality. Except make it look really cool. Two bright spots; air temps already in the mid 70's and crystal clear air quality. Wind speed is picking up. Going to be a hot one here on the coast.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Back and forth, back and forth




So yesterday was fairly clean and defined; today is all jumbled up and disorganized. Waist to chest, doubled up and all over the place. Some larger closed out sets; about 12 people out. Bright and sunny with some very warm off shore breeze. Water temps in the low 60's. Incoming tide.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monday, April 28, 2014

Trying to clean up




Long, slow lines pushing through this morning. Some longer period south mixing in with medium period WNW. Slight off shore breeze, sun. Waist to chest, maybe shoulder high on the sets. Long lulls between ridable waves. About 20 people out. Tide is rising to a 4.6 at around 10am.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Friday, April 25, 2014

SE wind




Moderate SE wind has put some texture on the water. Waist to chest high short period windswell. 5.0 high tide in about 30". So all but the largest set waves are rolling and rolling and not breaking until way inside. Fair to poor shape with fair conditions which I think is going to deteriorate quickly. But it's not that bad right now. So, if you're going to surf this morning you should hurry on down.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary



- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

A Tad Junky




Some large westerly short period wind swell has shown up. And it was windy most of the night. Chest to head high storm like surf is the result. Disorganized and breaking everywhere. The reef is awash and the inside is a mess of whitewater and strong southerly current. Looks like about 3 people have made out to the line up with about 3 times that number struggling to punch through the inside washing machine to the outside. Light offshores with a dropping tide. A below average surf day here at 15th Street.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Wind!




3-4 knots from the SW has put a crinkle on the water this morning. Not a wave killer but then the drop in swell seems to have taken care of that. Knee to waist high with crumbly shape and long waits between sets. Tide is on the way down but that's not going to be much if a factor today. A crowd of 8 this morning pretty tightly grouped in the reef. 4 more out at Tres Palmas and that's about it.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monday, April 21, 2014

Not bad for a Monday




Excellent conditions combined with some new longer period groundswell are producing some shoulder to head high surf. Good shape with the lefts holding up better than the rights, especially on the reef. A crowd of about 30; mostly the surf PE crew. They will be gone in about 45". Minus tide right now so it will get better as the tide fills back in.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Friday, April 18, 2014

Southwest




Wind is breathing heavy on the surf this morning. Surf is in the knee to waist high zone and still suffering from the minus tide early this morning. Smaller waves fold over in the shorebreak while the larger waves just sort of crumble into themselves. 2 people out at the reef; 20+ further north. Below average surf day.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Great conditions




But not much surf. Knee to waist high slow dribblers. Glassy conditions. Just a breath if a south wind. Reef is totally flat. Sandbars are working in front of the grass and lifeguard headquarters. 12 people out. And the water is 57-58. How's that for inviting?

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monday, April 14, 2014

Flat, flat, flat...


Clean conditions; light offshores; no waves. Soft sectiony ankle to knee high surf, mostly shorebreak. If you were around yesterday, it's smaller and weaker than that. Looks like a good day for an ocean swim or sea kayaking but not surfing.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Friday, April 11, 2014

Well, at least it's Friday


No photo today; system glitch. Smaller and less consistent than earlier in the week. The 4.3 high tide is still 30" away and that is not going to help the surf at all. Ankle to knee high shore break with larger closed out sets. No wind, glassy conditions. 13 people out thinly scattered across the reef.
Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, April 9, 2014

Lumpy




A 4.1 high tide has swallowed up most of the swell this morning. Knee to thigh with lumpy, crossed up conditions. Sets are larger but they just keep rollin', rollin', rollin'...(you can complete the song lyrics yourself). So there's really not much to report. Or see. Or surf on. Just ask the 4 people in the line up. Yeah, those guys; sitting on their Costco Wavestorm soft tops.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Tame Tuesday




Glassy conditions, light crowd but lully. Knee to waist slow rollers and long waits between sets. Almost nothing in between. Less tide will probably help with consistency, size and shape. Still with only 10 surfers and one boat in the line up and sun in your face, why not get wet?

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monday, April 7, 2014

Things have slowed down




Surf heights have dropped some and it's become inconsistent. Mostly in the knee to waist high range with some slightly larger set waves. Good surface conditions and fair shape. Water temp is a bit chilly; 58-60.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Friday, April 4, 2014

Frosty Friday




Air temp has dropped some as has the surf. And the tide. Knee to waist high surf; mostly sectioning and closing out. There are a few corners here and there but you've got to work for it. The usual predawn Friday crowd of about 12 people. Mostly smooth surface conditions. Me, I'm waiting for the sun.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, April 2, 2014

Hump Day...




Bumpy, hacked up conditions. Not much wind now. Waist to chest high surf with poor shape; no one out. No one looking.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone