Thursday, May 31, 2012

Not as much lump and bump




This morning. The swell period has smoothed out and there is actually some space between the waves. Clean conditions, most flat in between the waist to chest high south sets. I'd rate the shape as fair but difficult to get into. Even the largest set waves are backing off and not breaking till well inside. Reid on his SUP is getting most of the waves; in fact he is the only guy out. Every one else has come in. Must be the shift change.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Tower of Babylon




In other words, it's a garbled mess out there this morning. Waist to chest high short period wind swell crumbling it's way to the beach. An occasional southie rumbles through but goes nowhere. Increasing onshore wind too. Chuck and Reid just got out and gave it a resounding 2 thumbs down.

Then we had a long discussion about how messed up the bottom is and talking story about when 15th street was good more times than not. So what's your theory about the decline?

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Clean, glassy and...




Flat. Wouldn't you know it. A perfect confluence of conditions and the waves are a no show! Ankle to knee high dribbler shore break. 3 eternal optimists just waiting' and hoping. At least they have some great weather to sit around in. The overcast is staring to break up and blue sky is peeking through here and there. This is going to be a better beach day than yesterday; no people.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

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Wednesday, May 23, 2012

The Eddy Blows




It's a bumpy, hacked up mess this morning. Sir Eddy is all over it providing more than ample texture and crumble to the waist to shoulder high wind swell junk stumbling in. Nobody out at the reef but there are 4 people out just south of it. All in all, worse than yesterday (which was pretty bad) with no relief in sight. Oh, and the south wind is picking up. Perfect.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Tuesday, May 22, 2012

May Grey...




Calm surface conditions with junky, unorganized knee to waist high slop. Looking mostly like short period, near shore generated wind swell without much life to it. Strong south current. There are some light swirling eddy winds adding to the fun. 11 guys out including Luke and Chuck.

Some folks are recommending a go out today since the soothsayers are having visions of 8-10 foot surf from tomorrow through the weekend; which DM does not handle well at all. We shall see.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Friday, May 18, 2012

A tad more organized




Than yesterday but conditions are still funky. Waist to shoulder high wind swell with bigger southerly set waves. Doubling up stacking up (the waves are right on top of each other) and backing off; stand up guys are getting the most and even they are having a hard time dropping in. Poor+ conditions and shape. 12 people out.

Swirling eddy winds are creating some texture and chop but the sun is trying to break through.

Not shaping up as a great surf day but hey, it's Friday!

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary
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Thursday, May 17, 2012

A jumbled up mess




With closed out sets. Some shoulder high wind swell peaks mixed in with some head high+ closed out southern sets. Lots of white water and not much focus to the swell here in Del Mar. 2 people out in front of the lawn; two in front of the ramp; 7 at the reef. Poor shape overall and angling for the inside stuff will get you thumped by the sets at some point. I'd say the bottom is still in transition and in its current state we have, well, a sloppy, ugly scene.

But we do have the SurfRider art gala at the Powerhouse to look forward to tonight! Right, Clay, Chuck, Dave and Luke? I know you all have your tickets so I will see you there but just in case you know of someone who doesn't have tickets, have them go to the San Diego SurfRider web site and buy some. Help SurfRider continue it's work so we can all continue doing what we love most; SURFING!!!!!

Have a good one and
See you tonight
Aloha
Gary


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Tuesday, May 15, 2012

More swell...




And more wind to go with it. Chest to shoulder to head high on the sets. "Groomed" by a significant westerly wind. Sets are breaking outside and reforming on the inside. Lumpy, bumpy surface conditions. Shape is poor to fair with most of the crew sitting on the inside hoping to snag a reform corner or the shifting peak on the sandbar.


8 short-boarders clumped together right in front of the ramp. Which is also where an Amazon River sized rip is running. Nobody on the reef.

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary


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Monday, May 14, 2012

A little more size




Only on the sets though. Chest to maybe shoulder high but closing out with some very short, steep take offs and then bail. Slightly cleaner than yesterday but still some chunky surface conditions. Light breeze and not many waves in between the sets. The tide is on it's way out. 5 people out. Parking lot is deserted. Looks marginal this morning.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Friday, May 11, 2012

Holding' On




Still some swell in the water; chest to shoulder high with poor conditions and moderately poor shape. Tide is moving out fast and south wind is on it. The usual Friday crowd (15) trying desperately to pick off a quick shoulder for a short dumpy ride. About the only people getting anything at all are the SUPs. And even their boards are chattering across the chop in the waves. Needs less wind and more tide. But you can't always get what you want, can you.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Thursday, May 10, 2012

Minus tide, swirling winds




Not a good mix for the surf. Chest high with head high sets. Poor surface conditions with choppy, sloppy waves. Looks and acts like a fairly close in wind swell. Giant rip right in front of the grass that will suck you right out; a no paddle paddle out. 6 people out; no one catching any waves. Oh well, time to get on with the rest of the day.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

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Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Minus tide blues




The negative tide is the dominant force this morning. There are some lines showing but the lower than low tide has pretty much drained the life out of it. There are some waist to chest high shoulders popping up just south of the reef but other than that the line up is all over the place. 6 guys out. No wind.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Monday, May 7, 2012

A bit walled up




Well, its better than it has been for the past week but low, low tide and lack of a windswell to cross things up is producing mostly walled up and closed out surf. Clean conditions, waist to shoulder high, offshore breeze, very short rides; 7 people out. More tide will help.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Friday, May 4, 2012

Lumpy and Warbly




Strange day indeed. No wind, smooth sea surface but the waves are just weird. Let's see, how best to describe it; a jumbled up swell mix producing some waist high semi ridable surf. Very different from yesterday's long southern lines.

Nothing much even breaking till well inside the reef. Poor to poor plus shape. 7 people out bobbing around in the shore break. Maybe less tide will help but I think the biggest factor is the southern hemi swell angle is too steep to show here today. Marginal stuff.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Thursday, May 3, 2012

It's a Swamp Thing




Longer period south swell is showing this morning at about waist to maybe chest high. Long waits, light surface bump, 15 guys out. The incoming tide is slowing it down considerably taking most of the punch out of it. A little bit of crumble but if you are patient you can probably pick off a corner or two before the wind kicks in.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Gone with the Wind




Another surf day claimed by Eddy! Some serious chop on the water this morning with some small (waist high) junk at the reef; slightly larger junk at Tres Palmas. 4 guys out sitting way inside trying to hop on the occasional mush burger headed their way. Need to find a place more protected from the eddy winds if you want to get wet today.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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