A Bit More Organized

Than it had been for the last few days. Some actual individual lines can be seen. Waist to chest high, poor shape and due to the westerly winds, some significant morning sickness. Waves start to show on the outer reef then back off as they move inside. 5 guys out. Few rides to be had with these slow rollers. No wind and some sun would make it a whole lot better.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Pesky wind!

Strong NW wind has blown it out already this morning. 2-3 foot chop with lots of lump and bump thrown in for good measure. Still, there are 3 groms paddling out to see what they can make of it. When the wind backs off this swell (SW) is going to produce some fun surf. You're gonna like the way it looks, I guarantee it.

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Water, water everywhere

And not a drop to surf. Typical post storm conditions, strong NNW winds, lots of chop. No surf. As small or smaller than it has been all week. Just as well though; less temptation to surf in dirty, runoff laden water.

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

It's a Beautiful Day

But someone forgot to invite the waves. Ankle slappers on the biggest of the sets. No wind, glassy and sunny. Coming off a minus tide. 5 people out. And one spear fisherman. Like a picture postcard.

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Not totally flat...

But close to it. Ankle to knee high on the sets. Calm winds, fair surface conditions, low tide. 2 SUPs out and that's it.

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Glassy and classy

Dead calm, fog is retreating and some waist to shoulder California gold is happening. The southern hemi lines are getting crossed up some by the westerly windswell making for some tasty peaks. However (and there is always a however), the break is suffering from a grom infestation that only time will cure (they all have to be in class in about an hour). 14 people out and more getting ready but if you're on the reef or just south of it there's plenty of room.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Gonna be a nice one

Good conditions, no wind, some chest high lines, sunny and warm; wadda place! Still some short period wind swell mixed in with some longer period southern hemi stuff. The high tide is slowing it down some; not actually breaking till well inside. The southern sets are about every 15" with 10 waves each. They start showing about 400 yards out and jack up as they hit the reef, then close out. 3 people out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Better Hurry

If you want to get some surfing in before it's totally blown out. South east wind is gaining strength and the conditions are still fair but are not going to stay that way for long. Shoulder to head high with the southern sets having the best shape. Long lulls. 2 people out. It's actually better than yesterday shape wise.

Found this dead bat ray washed up yesterday.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Moderately Chunky Conditions

Dirty water. The day after the storm and conditions are fairly clean with some long, shoulder to head high closed out set waves. Breaking pretty far outside too. A few shoulders on the in between stuff but positioning yourself for those ensures a thumping by the sets. 4 people out; all getting worked by sets that seem to be breaking further and further out no matter how hard they paddle to avoid it. They're almost at the outside kelp beds now. Anyway...

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Bigger

Swell has picked up to the shoulder and overhead range. Good conditions, east winds but poor shape. Just coming off a minus tide and the waves are standing up quickly and closing out. Biggest north and south of the reef. 4 people out; none of them the regular crew. Needs a lot more tide. It will be a race between the incoming tide and the wind direction clocking around from the south and west.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

New Swell Lines

Very clean conditions, waist to chest high, but sectioning and closing out. Especially on the sets which is pretty much all there is right now. Just now coming off a minus tide so things should start to improve as the tide fills in. Very slight off shore breath and the sun is coming up over the hill. 4 people out. All lined up north of the reef. All scratching really hard to get in a wave.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Still not very good

Or as one surfer put it as she was getting back in her car to drive away; "Damn!". Yep, it's been pretty crappy for more than a week now and it's not showing any signs of getting better anytime soon.

Marginal conditions, stacked up, doubled up, short period shoulder to head high wind swell. Even with the offshore breeze it still sucks. One person out. But it is Friday and the Padres are off to a losing start so...

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Lumpy Gravy

South wind has chopped it up early this morning. Waist to shoulder high maybe head high on the sets. Short period WNW wind swell doubled up and lacking juice and shape. But the south wind is what has made it so bad this morning. If not for that there would be some surfable waves or as someone who just got out of the water put it when I ask how his session was; "it's not as good as it looks". And it doesn't look that good. So there you have it.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Still Funky

A lot of swell sticking around but it's pretty disorganized, lumpy, large and breaking waaaaay outside. I can barely make out the guys sitting furthest out. Poor shape with lots of water moving around; tons of white water. Biggest sets are still way overhead. Long lulls make the paddle out not too bad but then what? Haven't seen anyone on a wave yet. I think point breaks may be the best bet today.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Muy Grande

Well, it's large and in charge. Poor surface conditions from all the wind; tons of white water everywhere; 8-10+ close out waves all over the place. Very strong south current. T'aint fit for man nor beast. But it's a spectacular sight. No one out. This is going to take a few days to shake out. In the mean time

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone