Afternoon of the building swell; Windansea

A building south swell colliding with a building WNW swell; where to go, where to go.  Not Del Mar.  Not Terramar.  Windansea?  Yes, Windansea.  Got there around 3 o'clock and actually found a parking spot.  A good sign.  The wind had stopped and glass was forming.  Now if there would just be some waves. Well, I didn't win the lotto last night but this was almost as good.  Take a look:

When the lip comes down

State of the art lifeguard facilities

Set wave with some size

Signature Windansea 

Don't look up, don't look up!

Sometimes a metallic sheen is good

Everything came together on this one

Setting up the turn

Looking forward to tomorrow to see if the waves live up to the hype.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Messy

Calm conditions, almost glassy in fact but the swell is very very confused. Short period stuff from one direction colliding with longer period stuff from another direction. Doubling up with slow mushy reform or head high close outs on the outside and on the sandbar north of the reef. Poor shape. 15 guys out mostly shortboard types working the sandbar north of the reef. It's probably good someplace, just not here.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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New Swell

And lots of it. Shoulder to head high; larger on the sets. Not well organized or focused at 15th street. Biggest north of the reef. Poor shape. Set waves are closing out. Mostly glassy surface conditions with just a touch of lump here and there. 8 people out. Mostly sitting; not too many catching waves.

It's probably a surf day somewhere in San Diego, just not here.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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It Has Cleaned Up a Lot

But there is no focus to this swell at 15th street. Good surface conditions, light offshores, soft, mushy waist to shoulder high slow rollers. Long lulls Poor to fair shape. 10 people out. Not a bad day; just don't expect too much.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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So What Did You Expect?

Shoulder to head high storm junk. Relentless swell coming straight out of the west with strong south winds tearing it up. Very poor conditions and shape to match. Not much going on here today. It's going to take a few days for the ocean to settle down, focus the swell and for the water quality to improve. No one out.

A very large halibut washed up on the beach was providing lots of free shushi for the seagulls.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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A Bit of a Ruffle

And riffle on the water this morning. Eddy winds have tossed it up; looks like early afternoon conditions already. There is some swell out there but it looks like local wind swell; very short period and doubled up. Waist to chest and poor shape, 10 people out; all beginners on Costco soft tops in a class.


Not a surf day but it is a Friday!

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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A few waves

Here and there. Glassy, inconsistent, small scale surf this morning. Sets are about chest high with fair shape. 3 people out. And the water temp is hovering right around 55; ca-ca-cold!

Found three of these sunfish washed ashore in DM yesterday afternoon. Looked like they had been "finned". Some food for the gulls. Eyes first.


Have a good one
Aloha (and happy birthday Chuck)
Gary


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Some New Swell

Sorry for the late report but I didn't have much time to paddle out before the tide came up. A west wind is on it now but earlier it was glassy, waist to shoulder high with good shape. And except for the onshore wind it's still that way now. Reid and I were the only ones out earlier: now there are about 10 people out. Waves are fat and peeling so there are some nice long rides.

Changed out my tri-fin set up for my 10" Farberow single fin and had some nice down the line rides. Would be nice if it's like this again tomorrow!


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

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Clean Conditions

But dirty water. Lots of very short period wind swell this morning. Nicely groomed by perfect offshore wind, the peaks are throwing off waist to chest high peelers breaking pretty close in. Fair to good shape Beautiful stuff. But it's going to be at least another 24 hours till the water quality is fit for man or beast. Oh, and it's very cold this morning. 3 people out.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Very clean conditions

Hardly any wind at all; we have almost glassy conditions. Some waves here and there; a tad inconsistent but about waist to chest high somewhat larger in the sets. Fair shape with some corners and some close outs too. Short board heaven at Tres Palmas.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

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Waves!

Large, long closed out lines with a west wind crumble already on it. Moderate surface bump and lots of whitewater. Poor shape, 6 people out. The tide is just about right for 15th street but the wind and swell direction aren't. In fact the wind is picking up speed as I stand here.

But there is something shapely here; the new DM lifeguard headquarters. Long swooping curves and arches are beginning to show. Should be a real show piece when done.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Needs more tide

New swell is here but it could use about 3 more feet of tide. Long, clean, shoulder to head high closed out lines; not many corners to swing into. Excellent surface conditions; poor shape, 6 people out. The sets are bigger and sneaky; every one of them has worked the line up but good. The tide bottoms out at 8:30 at zero so it's not going to get any better surfwise till around 10 or 11. That's my prediction and I'm sticking to it!


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
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Very Clean but...

Kinda drained out by the minus tide. Good surface conditions, light north east breeze, waist high and inconsistent. Not a lot out there this morning; the reef is barely breaking and to the north and south we've got sandbar closeouts. Two people out. And that's all folks.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Nope, not kiddin'

No surf at all! Perfect conditions though; smooth surface, sunshine and warm offshores. Except for the lack of waves it couldn't be better. Oh, and no one is out. Not even to get some exercise.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Sun is Out but...

It's really cold this morning. Good conditions; calm, glassy and clean. Just no surf to speak of. There is a short period swell in the water and it is showing some potential but right now it's backing off and flattening out on the reef and not breaking till the shore break. Knee to waist high and weak. Two people out. Can't believe it's supposed to be in the 70's today!


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Chunky and Lumpy

Size has kicked up a notch or two but there is already a SW wind on it. That has reduced some shoulder high surf into weak crumbly lines trying desperately to push through the morning high tide. No one out. Not a surf day here.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Yep, it's really that flat

A lack of swell and a 6 foot high tide have shutdown 15th street this morning. Knee high shore break is about it. Glassy conditions and overcast skies. No one out. So this morning would be a good one to bust out your secretly stashed SUP and get some exercise. No one will see you.

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary


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A Ton of Swell

Waves everywhere this morning. One problem; it's all short period wind swell with no rhyme or reason. Waist to shoulder high, good conditions, poor shape. Needs some time to settle down and focus. However, the sun is out and there is no wind. Now we just need the third element; rideable waves.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Once Again, VAS

Victory at Sea conditions prevail this morning. Strong, steady west wind had hacked the surf to shreds. Waist to chest high, poor conditions, no one out. So Chuck, you can relax.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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