A Messed Up Jumble

Of storm surf. Waist to head high junk; strong west winds tearing the waves to shreds. Very poor conditions and very poor water quality. No one out or even here. Only a few people walking dogs on the sand. Deserted, windy and cold. Perfect.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Prestorm Conditions

Strong SW wind is on it this morning. No whitecaps yet but soon I'm sure. Waist to shoulder high junk; no one out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Lord Edward Is Back

A very low ceiling this morning but no fog. Very light NNW air, good surface conditions. Waist to chest, bigger on the sets (which are closing out). Typical Friday morning crowd, 30 ( doesn't anyone work in San Diego?).

Not the best shape but there are some corners and shoulders here and there and enough lulls to make it out without too much trouble.


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Everybody Is Smiling

Dawn patrollers just exiting the water are all grins and saying it is fun. Slight surface texture, calm winds, good tide, waist to chest high, fair shape. Not much going on in between sets. Looks like its probably worth a go out.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Manageable

Calmed down and cleaned up since yesterday. It's still short period energy with not much shape; just smaller. Waist to chest high, clean conditions, slow and lumbering. 47 degrees, 5 people out. The sets still have some size but those are not very often and you don't have to sit way outside in anticipation of getting smacked by one. All in all, a pretty nice day here in San Diego. Get out there and enjoy it.

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary

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BIG!!!

In short, it's massive. A very large short period swell is battering DM this morning. 8 foot faces on the sets; the tweeners are shoulder to head high producing massive amounts of white water. Most who try are not making it out; being swept south and onto the rocks before they know it. including Kurt, who tried but gave up. Beautiful and scary at the same time.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Lookin' Kinda Confused

Pretty disorganized and unfocused swell mix this morning. Plus a a super high tide that is just now on its way out. Waist to shoulder high; larger sets. Steady off shores. Poor to fair shape. COLD. 7 guys out. It's been a while since I've been out but I think I'm going to wait to see what tomorrow brings. That cold, cold wind and the high tide  mushiness have taken the edge off it for me.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Looking Good

Lots of short period windswell peaks and lines. Light offshore breeze. Fair surface conditions. Shoulder to head high, poor shape, no one out. As it should be after a rain/runoff event that had spewed countless millions of gallons of urban vomit into the sea.

Water quality should clean up enough to hit it on Friday. And speaking of water quality, what do you think of the EPA's budget proposal to eliminate funding for states to conduct water quality testing programs? No big deal or a major public health catastrophe? Or did you even know that was a source of funds for beach water quality testing programs?

Jake's concert at the Balboa theater last night was incredibly good. Sorry none of you made it out. You missed seeing one of the world's great ukulele virtuosos and all around good human being.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Hard to Believe

That there is an offshore breeze right now. This after an all night session of howling westerly gale force winds and rain squalls. The surf is pretty torn up with some monster swells peaking way outside, getting their tops blown off, slumping over and then pushing through till they peak again on the reef, creating massive amounts of white water.

Storm surf and not much on tap unless you happen to be a Pelican. They always get the best waves regardless of conditions.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Storm Surf

Is what's on the menu for this fine Monday morning. It's a lumpy, bumpy mess. Heavy chop, west winds, and 7-8 foot waves pretty much every where. Even bigger to the north. Not quite Victory at Sea conditions but getting there fast. Poorest of poor conditions and (I can hardly believe it) no one out.

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary


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How Big Does a Wave Have to be

To make a 6 foot high wall of white water? Cause that's pretty much what's going on this morning. It's not as big and relentless as yesterday but there is still some size. Sets are head high plus and closing out and the inside stuff is shoulder to head high. There are some lulls so if you time it right you won't get thrashed too badly on the paddle out. Still, don't plan on a "dry hair" paddle out to the line up.

If you're in the right place you might be able to snag a steep corner for a short ride. Clean conditions. 10 guys out chasing the shifting lineup and avoiding the closed out sets.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Ugly, ugly, ugly

Big, lumpy west swell unloading with unrelenting fury this morning. On the inside, head high to head + close outs. Out the back, overhead to waaaaay overhead bombs. Lots of water moving, tons of whitewater. Some trying to make it out; most not even getting past the whitewater. Turning around and skidding back in on their bellies.

Not a surf day here in Del Mar.

BTW, John told me this morning that his parking lot is in escrow. He expects to close late spring. An end to free dawn session parking?

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Super High Tide

4-5 foot with some 7 foot sets. Much the same as the previous week's swells with this hard west angle: long, walled up, and closed out. Some decent lulls so getting out shouldn't be an issue. Moderate surface bump, calm wind, 12 guys out. Shoulders and corners on the in between waves; not so much on the sets.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Super Bowl Sunday Swell

The surf has come a lot in the last 24 hours.  Yesterday it was waist to chest high and this morning it was 5-6 with the occasional 7 foot sets.  The swell has lots of west in it so it was pretty lined up and the sets were closing out.  It was a tough paddle out and not much to pick from once you were there.  It had it's moments though and here they are...

When you pull up and it looks like this you know it's not going to be easy getting out

Marcos snags a clean little right while Ian has a ringside seat

Nowhere to run to baby, nowhere to hide.  Some poor unfortunate soul about to take this set wave right on the head

A sequence of Ian about midway through a ride; one...

Two...

and three...off the top

Hard to believe how wide this SUP board is

Marcos on his wave in

These guys were headed south in a big hurry...a pod of 20-25 dolphins about a half mile off shore.

Bill Harris trying to tiptoe over the whitewater;  it didn't work

Grom on the inside section

Nice move off the top.  Iguana man

Again

If you like long, closed out, head high walls, this is another good day for you.  I'm calling this poor+ shape with a few right hand corners.  Lots of white water to go with all the close outs.  Did I mention it is inconsistent?  So plan on some long waits in between the closed out sets.  20 people out.

Chuck just phoned in from Terra Mar and it's not even showing there; it's flat, flat, flat.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Long, warbley

Closed out walls.  Poor shape.  Head high to head high + on the sets.  Doubled up chest to shoulder in between.  Moderately clean surface conditions, calm winds and haze.  Lots and lots of white water and a monster rip off Tres Palmas.  Line up is situated way outside and spread out from south to north across the reef.  20 guys out.  If you like pulling into big, closed out walls, today is your day!  Otherwise you'll need to find a set up that does better with the degree of west in this swell.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary