Cold and Calm

No wind (just a breath of easterly flow) but the surface is still lumpy and bumpy. Mostly very short period waist to chest high wind swell. Occasional NW dumping sets. Poor to poor+ shape and form. Air temp: 37. Water temp: 59. Six very hardy souls out; 3 on the reef and 3 at Tres Palmas. More folks arriving to check it out.
Hey, at least we don't have an invasion of box jellies like Waikiki has right now.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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More Storm Surf

Only bigger! Light swirling winds right now but the ocean is all messed up from the strong winds yesterday and most of the night. Total Victory at Sea conditions with some overhead + bombs unloading up and down the beach. Air temp a balmy 44. No one out. No one looking.

Not a surf day.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Stormy Wednesday

Not a surf day here in Del Mar. Rain, southwest wind and sloppy choppy surf. Nobody out, a few folks driving by now and then to check it out. Looking to the north, it looks like the brunt of the storm is on it's way. Lots or run off already, so the water quality is going south once again!

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary


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Sewage Spill

At Del Mar has caused us to move on to Terra Mar this morning. Clean, small and cold. But there are some waves out there. Waist to chest high with a bone chillin' off shore wind. 9 guys out. Dave and I are scoping it and will be paddling out as soon as the sun hits it.

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary


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Mele Kalikimaka!

Mele Kalikimaka is the thing to say
On a bright Hawaiian Christmas day
That’s the island greeting that we send to you
From the land where palm trees sway

Here we know that Christmas will be green and bright
The sun will shine by day and all the stars by night

Mele Kalikimaka is Hawaii’s way
To say Merry Christmas to you.

By R. Alex Anderson

Aloha
Have a good one
Gary
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24 Hours Too Soon

Who cares if the water is teeming with all manner of spirochetes, flagellates, ribovirus, filovirus, staphylococcus, streptococcus (and that's just the stuff you can't see); the rain has stopped, the sun is out!  Let's get on it!  The sediment hasn't even settled out yet there they were; the brave, the bold, the few (actually, it was crowded.  Go figure) and the impervious.  Hope they clenched tight.

It was a beautiful, clear and cold morning and there were some waves.  Looking north.

This SUP took itself out for a surf.  It's owner was frantic.  I think they reunited later on.

The waves were shapely and about chest high, a siren song for sure.  But you know what happens if you succumb to their call, right?

Lots of shore birds doing the predator dance.

Some of the sand has been washed away, exposing some cobble.  Very hard on boards surfed without a leash.

Overcome with angst and looking ahead at the weather report,  Chuck decided to get some water time.

Friday Morning Poo Patrol

There are actually 15 poosters out trolling for brown trout this morning. Slight surface bump, chest high, fair to good shape (notice how I avoided the term "good conditions"? Clever, huh?)

Me, I'm waiting one more day before I go out, you should too.

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary


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Now Comes the Hard Part

That is staying out of the water till it purges itself of all the nastiness that has been pouring into it for the past 3-4 days. Cause it's got some size, some shape and some juice. And offshores. Head high+, short period with a good mix of swells producing some nice looking peaks.

Beautiful yet toxic at the same time.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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What's that Smell?

Here at 15th street between rain cells. Strong south wind, shoulder high + storm surf, chocolate brown water. Brown all the way out to the kelp beds and then some.

A vaguely familiar scent hangs in the air; it's there and then it's not. What is it? Oh, it's the sticky, pungent sour smell of raw sewage. Nice. I'm sure the sewers were overwhelmed by all the runoff. The sewer system is not water tight by the way, the amount of water associated with this storm intrudes quite easily into the system causing it to back up and join the rest of the urban drool making it's way to the ocean.

Hepatitis anyone?

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Can't Stand the Rain....

On my window pane. Surprisingly clean conditions. "Clean" referring to the surface conditions, not the tons and tons and millions of gallons of chemical, viral, bacterial and trasherial waste in the surf right now. I'm also surprised that there are two people out in it. They must drink from the toilet bowl at home; idiots.

Chest to shoulder high peaks all over the place. Some with decent shape but short, short shoulders. Calm to very light wind. Extremely high tide has swamped it; waves are breaking very close to shore.

Even if the water wasn't as polluted as it is, this would be a challenging go out with short period shifting peaks all breaking way inside. Just going to have to wait it out.

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary


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In Case You Were Wondering

What the surf is like this fine Sunday morning. High tide, south wind, waist to shoulder high, short period WNW swell. Poor conditions. Totally Hacked up. No one out. Good day to catch a movie.

Oh and by the way Clay and Luke, I just finished off the 3 nut brittle; couldn't help myself.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Go Your Own Way

Right, left, straight, whatever. Super clean, light offshores, waist high, 7 people out. Parking lot is empty. Kinda rolly, not breaking till well inside but you can see the lines in the water about half way out to the kelp beds. That kind of day.

While conditions are good right now, it looks like they could deteriorate quickly once the wind changes. In fact, that is happening right now.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Standing At the Station

Wondering; should I stay or should I go? Grey skies, slight drizzle with waist high dribblers making their way eastward. Clean conditions, 11 people out waiting for a chance to glide on some short period wind-swell but there isn't much gliding going on. A few ass wiggling short board "rides" is about the extent of it. A northeast breeze is beginning to pick up.

Remember when we used to surf?


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Things Have Changed

Cold, damp and foggy. And the water temp has edged down a degree or two. Waist high slow rollers that don't break till well past the reef, 20 guys out. Including Chuck who is just now making his way out while muttering something about the weather getting even worse in the coming days. Fair shape.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Are You Disappointed If It's Not Quite Right?

Then don't come to 15th street this morning. Fairly clean with some slight surface texture. Slight offshore flow Thigh high on the sets (which are few and far between); knee high in between. Shape is marginal with just enough stuff for about 2 people, which is how many are out right now.

One of the best things about this morning is the leaping dolphin show. The boyz are feeling good this morning; full body out of the water leaps. If you've got nothing else to do then you might consider it. Better than yard work.

Have a good one


Aloha
Gary


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Friday Afternoon Update

Very clean conditions; almost glassy. Shoulder to head high peaks pushing through. 12 guys out, fair shape with the lefts showing better form. The bigger sets are easily 6 feet or better but are walled up and closing out. Brown water (what's with that?).

If it continues to clean up, tomorrow morning could be a surf day.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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It Has No Edge

There are no sides. Foggy, walled, and all over the place. Looks about waist to head high, poor to poor plus shape, short rides.

But enough from me, let's hear from the usually reliable sources:
Sloppy (Chuck); unworthy (Ian); don't be a bitch, we're going out! (Luke). So there you have it.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Slip Away

If you can for a short session before the tide swamps it. Clean conditions, ice cold air and at last, some sun. 2-3 with some shoulder high sets.

Luke and I are waiting for just a little bit more sun king before paddling out. There are some waves out there.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Deceptive

Before you decide to hit it this morning you may want to sit and watch for a bit. There are just enough lulls to make it moderately difficult to get out; then the set starts piling up on the horizon and you realize that maybe you need to be just tad further out than you are.

Head to head + sets, glassy conditions, 10 guys out. Short period, fair shape, rising tide. Bigger than it looks.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Sunrise

Clean, clean, clean. Light offshores, 2-3 inconsistent sets. 4 guys out. High tide has it breaking close to shore but the sets are breaking on the reef. Looks promising but you will have to get here before the tide does.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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Somewhere in Some Far Off Land

The surf is firing; just not here. Glassy smooth water, cruising dolphins, high tide and a total lack of surf. If you've ever seen the movie "Groundhog Day" then you understand what this past week has been like surf-wise. If you haven't seen it, you should.


Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


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From Me to You

Clean, sunny, bright and cold (air 39, water 57). And flat. No waves to speak of except for some ankle high shore break. 1 sweeper and one other guy out. Parking lot is totally deserted. Not a surf day here. Other than that, all is good.

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary




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