Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Hump Day




Smaller swell but still from that 270 direction which means mostly walled up and closed out. Surf is in the waist to chest high zone; slightly larger on the sets. Sea surface has some lump on it and there are several large rips here and there. 20 people out mostly sitting inside trying to pick off some smaller stuff while keeping an eye out for the sets. Calm winds; dropping tide.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, January 27, 2015

More close outs




Del Mar is simply overwhelmed with the main swell direction of 270 at 14 seconds. Head high to head high plus with long lined up walls. Closing out from Tres Palmas to the south end of the reef. Tide is still in retreat so don't look for any relief on that front. Every ten minutes or so a bone crushing 8-10 foot set rumbles in obliterating everything in its path. Good surface conditions, calm wind with partly cloudy skies and a very light crowd; 3.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monday, January 26, 2015

Dropped off a little




But only in terms of consistency. Waist to chest with head high sets; all close outs. Tide is dropping which is going to adversely affect shape (which is already bad) and size. Good surface conditions. 10 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Friday, January 23, 2015

Small, but not for long




Knee to waist high surf with fair surface conditions this morning. Sets are slightly larger but closed out. Nothing spectacular just sort of your average crumbly Del Mar surf. Frigid air temps. 10 people out.

There are some beach water quality advisories for parts of La Jolla and Cardiff reef but none here. Check it out for yourself at www.sdbeachinfo.com.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Grey and Washed Out




A dreary day where everything is the same color; some shade of grey. Surf is somewhat smaller but the sets are well overhead. The swell period is shorter making for some interesting sights as one set waves slams into the back of the one in front of it. Shape is poor, surface conditions are good, 10 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Surf's up; Way up




Shoulder to head high with sets in the 7 foot range. Long west walls with pick and choose corners. Tide is still filling in. Will top out at 6.7 feet around 8:15. Some short lulls to help with the paddle out; after you negotiate the shore break. Oh, and the only way these waves are letting you in is with a late take off. 10 people out. Have fun...

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monday, January 19, 2015

King tide




6.6 tide right now. But the swell is managing to push on through it. Breaking close in but breaking. Waist to shoulder high; best in the sets. Walled up but with some patience and perseverance you might get lucky and slide into a nice one. Good surface conditions, calm wind, 20 people out.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Friday, January 16, 2015

Flat with huge sets




An interesting morning at 15th street. Very inconsistent surf leaving us with very long periods of flatness punctuated by very large head high plus closed out bomber sets. Getting the thumbs down from everyone as they come in. No smiles. No grins. Only frowns.

Moderate amount of surface chop, calm winds. Smallest at the reef. Larger at 11th street and Tres Palmas. Seems like what was a promising swell has delivered up some crummy surf. There is disappointment in the air. Or maybe that's just the smell of burning train brakes.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary




- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, January 14, 2015

Ok, Time's Up;




Poo index is reasonable once again. So everybody back in the water! But the surf is significantly smaller than in days past. Knee to waist with rare chest high sets. Average, crumbly shape. Inconsistent with a slight bump on the water. Air temps in the upper 40's with water temps hovering around 60. Tide is on its way out with the low at 11:30am.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, January 13, 2015

Smooth as Glass




With a poo index hovering around 7 or 8. Waist to shoulder; some larger sets. Shape and form: sketchy. Mostly lined up and closed out west walls. Incredibly glassy sea surface. Short short rides with plenty of sinus rinses. 13 people out. Including (and this is difficult for me to believe because he should know better), Luke.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monday, January 12, 2015

All You Need to Know...





From the County of San Diego's Department of Environmental Health:

Beach Status Change, Effective January 11, 2015 at 2:00pm - A general (rain) advisory has been issued for all coastal waters of San Diego County. For more information visit our Mobile Web App http://sdbeachinfo.com















Have a good one
Aloha
Gary

Friday, January 9, 2015

To Borrow a Phrase from...




The Endless Summer; "...you should have been here yesterday...". Much much larger crowd (30+) and less wave quality. Surf is in the knee to waist high zone with some larger sets. Shape is fair to poor. Mostly lined up and closing out with an occasional corner to scrap over. Good conditions with some warmer air temps. Great looking cloud cover.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Thursday, January 8, 2015

It's a surf day!




Waist to chest with good shape and clean conditions. How good is it you ask? Good enough that I went out first then did the report when I came in. Lefts are good. Rights are good too. Getting a little soft now as the tide is filling in but still some sweet surf. So get out there a get a few!

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary




- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, January 7, 2015

Slight southerly angle




A very small (knee to maybe waist high) south swell is showing this morning. It's having a hard time competing with the incoming tide but you can see it nonetheless. Surf this morning is mostly short shore break stuff but as the tide goes out later this morning and into the afternoon it might get better. In the mean time, it's going to be another incredible day here in San Diego. Get out and enjoy it!

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, January 6, 2015

So, how do you define "flat"?




Well, I'd say that this morning is the perfect illustration of the definition of flat. Ankle high shore break and that's it. It's also very very quiet; as in lacking the sound of breaking waves. A little bit of texture on the water; calm wind. Perfect day for a long paddle or kayaking. Temps in the mid 70's are predicted at the coast so get out and enjoy it.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monday, January 5, 2015

Desperate Surf




These things are desperately trying to be waves and there are 3 people desperately trying to surf them.

The surf is running slightly larger this morning with calf to knee high lines breaking right on shore. But this is more energy than we've seen in a while. Fair sea surface conditions due to a touch of morning sickness ripple. A 6.0 high tide is due in at 8:30am. Air temps in the upper 40's and water temps in the low 60's. Me, I'm waiting for the sun and that forecast 70 degrees.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Friday, January 2, 2015

Words fail me

It's true. One picture is worth a thousand words. So here's two:







YouTube Video

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Thursday, January 1, 2015

Stay Frosty




Conditions and shape wise it's very very clean. But with a mere 24 hours since the last rain and runoff; it's very very dirty. Not anything I'd want to be in but there are 6 or 7 people out anyway.

Knee to waist high surf breaking in waist deep water with fair shape. Steady NE wind has knocked down all of the chop and smoothed out the wave faces. Besides the high poo index its really cold. Bitingly cold. Can't feel your fingers cold. Speaking of cold, the annual Del Mar penguin plunge is set for 11am today. So if you like arctic air and cold, dirty water...

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone