Monday, March 31, 2014

Monday Blues




Very short period windswell with not much focus or shape. Waist to chest high; light off shores with some surface texture. Cleaner than yesterday but the surf is still bad. 4 people out and getting pushed way out of the line up by the wind and current. So, all in all; a below average surf day.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Friday, March 28, 2014

Finally Friday...




Light off shore breeze, a little surface texture, waist to chest (larger on the sets) and Luke and Clay in the line up. Shape is a little funky though and the set waves are closing out. But there are some corners to snag on the in between stuff with the lefts looking better than the rights. 4 people out. Tide is very high.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, March 26, 2014

Wet and Wild!




Strong onshore winds have produced classic Victory at Sea conditions. Disorganized, choppy, sloppy and generally unsurfable. No one out; no one looking (except me). Not a surf day.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Dank and gloomy...




Slow, inconsistent high tide lines. Knee to waist high. Excellent surface conditions; slight marine layer drizzle. Lots of wait time between sets.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Friday, March 21, 2014

Surprise!




Eddy is back!! Significant SW flow has put a crimp in it. Raggedy conditions, waist to shoulder high closed out surf. Head high+ on the sets. Looks like a no surf day here. Closed for repairs as it were.


Have a good one

YouTube Video

Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Thursday, March 20, 2014

Drone on...




Good conditions except for the tide which could be a tad higher. Drained out, mostly closed out knee to waist high surf. Smooth surface conditions with just a hint of NE air. Most consistent north of reef. 4 out at the reef and 8 out north of reef in front of the grass. Oh, and one drone.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Friday, March 14, 2014

Shoulder to




Head high lines. Mostly lined up and closed out with a few rare corners offering up some short rides. And it's coming up on high tide. Brisk offshores have put a bit if a chill in the air, more so if you're wet. Good surface conditions. The usual Friday crowd (25+) looking to be in that right spot at the right time.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, March 11, 2014

Big, rolley & fat




2 hours off the high tide and the surge is still lapping the cliffs. Head to head plus size surf, best on the sets. A bit broken up and closed out at times but with a little cunning and luck there are some open faces to stroke into. Smooth sea surface conditions and about 11 people out. All in all. A fair day for surf in Del Mar.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Friday, March 7, 2014

Big & Messy




Short to medium westerly swell pushing in this morning. Mostly in the chest high range with some larger sets. Poor to poor plus shape and smooth surface conditions. Wave consistency is making for a long, hard slog out to the line up which, at this point, has about 7 people in it with at least that many searching for a break to make it out through the never ending whitewater. This is not a swell direction Del Mar is fond of but a place better able to focus it should offer up some big fat rides.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Wednesday, March 5, 2014

Right on the edge...




A fog line is playing cat and mouse with visibility this morning but from what I can see there is a head high, fat west swell pummeling 15th street this morning. Plus sets. Mostly closed out but there are a few short board corners here and there. Glassy sea surface. Poor water quality ( poo index of 3-4). About 12 people out in a line up that had shifted far to the outside.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Tuesday, March 4, 2014

Day 2: Poo Index Dips to 7




Very light off shores. Smooth sea surface with waist to chest high peaks. Some larger sets. Slow and mushy for the most part. 8 people out making preparation for a visit to the hepatitis ward.
Have a good one.
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monday, March 3, 2014

The highs and lows...




Wave quality is higher than the past few days; water quality is low, way low. A somewhat confusing situation for surfers, especially those with faulty decision making processes. To carve or not to carve? Depends. The poo index is extreme and will remain that way till at least Wednesday. So for me the decision is easy; look but don't touch.

Good conditions, chest to shoulder high surf, light offshore wind. Light crowd. Still some very large sets lurking out the back. Impression: till the water quality proves; not worth it.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Saturday, March 1, 2014

Large & In Charge




Large chunky storm surf with a surge that's blasting off the bluff faces. And it's not even high tide yet. Looks like 6-8 feet on the reef and 8-10 up around 17th street. Sunny now but more rain rapidly approaching from the north.

YouTube Video

Have a good one
Aloha
Gary


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone